Which bolt hole for rear brake reservoir? - Honda CBR 300 Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 10-08-2019, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Which bolt hole for rear brake reservoir?

I changed my brake fluid today for both front and rear but when putting back together the rear reservoir I see 2 bolt holes. Can you please look on your motorcycle and confirm if it should be the top hole or the bottom one?



I think I made a mistake. The service manual appears to show that it should be the bottom hole but in order to fit in the bottom hole I would need a nut of some kind on the other end of the bolt. It is possible that there was a nut and it fell to the ground but I looked on the ground very thoroughly and dont see any dropped nut so therefore I installed it to the top bolt hole. But now the reservoir is able to rock left and right so it appears that I may have lost the nut.

Please confirm?


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post #2 of 16 Old 10-09-2019, 09:24 AM
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the top hole is correct
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post #3 of 16 Old 10-09-2019, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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It seems that the bottom hole would remedy the rocking back and forth problem. But I would have to go to Home Depot and buy a new bolt and nut. Im going to give that a try and see how it turns out.

If I dropped that nut that is shown in the service diagram it is a very strange mystery because I never heard it drop and I dont see anything on the floor. But then again when you buy a used bike you never really know what the previous owner may or may not have done.

I already lost the bottom bolt that is for the front sprocket cover (that holds it in place) so I had to go to Home Depot to replace that one. Their prices are quite expensive. They charged me $1.35 for just 2 metric bolts (6mm x 1.0 x 1 inch long). SAE bolts on the other had are like 15 cents each. For this bolt on the brake reservoir I can use SAE bolt since the bottom hole does not have any threads. I will put some loctite on it also
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post #4 of 16 Old 10-09-2019, 02:01 PM
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mine is in the top hole
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-09-2019, 03:21 PM
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And how did the fluid change go? Any problems with bleeding the system? Sometimes that can be a booger.

To ride or not to ride? What a stupid question.
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-09-2019, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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2 votes for the top hole, eh? Well it is a confusing ordeal because with that picture I posted here of the exploded diagram it reads to me on the diagram like it should go into the bottom hole and that there is a nut (which we see in the diagram).

But I did install it in the top hole since that is the hole that is threaded and accepts the bolt. I guess everything is okay and I am formulating solutions to a problem that never existed.

THanks.
-------------------------- @airhead83: It went very smooth and it a simple 1 man job. I just grabbed an empty bottle of Pepsi and then bought some airline tubing (the kind they use in fish tanks) from Amazon for $3.25-------------- 25 feet @ 6.35M

Only need 2 feet for this job. Had to put some mineral oil on the tip for it to slide over the bleeder valve since the diameter of the tubing is slightly smaller than the valve but it does stretch to fit. Drilled a hole on the cap of the Pepsi and fed the tube thru it.

Squueze the brake, open the valve with an 8mm wrench by 1/4 turn then close the valve and release the brake. Repeat over and over again and continue to refill the master cyclinder to prevent it from going empty.

I ran into 1 complication with front brake where I let the master cylinder go completely empty and that introduced air into the system so I had to flush more brake fluid thru than one would normally need if they had not made same mistake.

The rear brake was super easy after i had experience with the front one. Its a 15 minute total job if one makes no mistakes. If you have a second person to fill the cylinder for you then it is more efficient. But my crazy neighbor that was steaming mad he ended up getting in an argument with me and now he doesnt want to speak to me anymore so I had to do the job by myself.

So thats the update this week, did both coolant and brake fluid changes. The motorcycle is purring like a cat now! Im at 8000 miles and trying to wait until 10k to change the rear tire. The factory chain looks like it will last me to the 15k miles on odometer
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post #7 of 16 Old 10-10-2019, 11:00 PM
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The bottom hole is what the shop manual says to use when doing the procedure, and the too hole is where it goes when finished. Not sure why they need both holes but I haven't bled the fluid myself yet so it might make sense when I do it over the winter.
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-10-2019, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-Viz-Honda View Post
The bottom hole is what the shop manual says to use when doing the procedure, and the too hole is where it goes when finished. Not sure why they need both holes but I haven't bled the fluid myself yet so it might make sense when I do it over the winter.
???? That is the most bazar thing I believe I've ever heard of out of a shop manual. I don't guess they explained why? Maybe it's a clearance thing I can't visualize.
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Last edited by airhead83; 10-10-2019 at 11:35 PM.
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-11-2019, 07:50 PM
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ok, why then would honda add an unused threaded hole matching thread of the bolt ? threaded fastener is more secure, costs more, matches component..
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-11-2019, 09:57 PM
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I don't doubt they intend for that welded threaded hole to be used. Several owners have already verified their bikes came that way. But why go to the expense to fabricate the additional slotted metal below, that has the correct clearance for the same bolt, then clearly show that hole being used, with a nut, in their diagram for service? That's what I'm saying is bazar. Again, maybe it's a clearance thing I can't visualize.
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