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10mm/12mm? Or is it 12mm/14mm?
Yeah, it's 12mm & 14mm for the axle adjuster nuts.

Your best bet would be to buy a set of metric combination wrenches from Craftsman or Kobalt... both are decent quality for not a lot of money. Get a basic set that has 8mm to 17mm. Having a set of 3/8" drive metric sockets in the same size range will also come in handy. For wrenches & sockets larger than 17mm, it's more cost effective to buy those individually.

For the 19mm & 24mm sizes, I'd go with a socket in 1/2" drive. I recall you said that you've been working on cars, so I'm assuming you've got 1/2" drive ratchets. A 1/2" drive breaker bar would be good if you don't already have one.

Check out this sticky for a more comprehensive list of tools: http://www.cbr300forum.com/forum/how-forum/162-diy-motorcycle-service-maintenance-basic-tools-supplies.html
 
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I have socket sets (1/4"-3/8" drives) metric & inch. I can use my 19mm (3/8" drive) socket to hold the adjacent nut to the axle nut. I do have a breaker bar as well... So it looks like all I need is 12,14, & 24mm combo wrenches. I'll check out the sticky also. Thanks again
 

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Oops, yes, 12 and 14 mm. I have a chart for all these sizes posted in my garage, but looked under the wrong bike. Harbor Freight sells some long handle wrenches that includes a 24 mm and a 19 mm size combination wrenches. Those work really well too and are cheap if you use your 20% off coupon. The handles are long enough you won't need a breaker bar. You might with a socket wrench.
 

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Don't lose too much sleep over not getting a tool kit with your bike. The quality of them is abysmal. The only tool worth keeping is the 'C' spanner for adjusting your rear shock preload.
 

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Don't lose too much sleep over not getting a tool kit with your bike. The quality of them is abysmal. The only tool worth keeping is the 'C' spanner for adjusting your rear shock preload.
I agree. Historically the so-called "tool kits" supplied with most bikes are pretty crappy.

I already had a shock preload wrench from another bike, so that one wasn't an issue, but the one tool I did order from Honda for the CBR was the long reach spark plug socket... seems most regular plug sockets won't fit down into the valve cover recess.
 
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Hi Guys and Gals,

Been a while since I posted. Get ready to do my first chain adjustment on my own. I watched these two videos before and felt loosening the adjustment nut not ideal or should I say confusing. I can understand why he did it that way but I feel it would be better to just tighten them am I correct in this logic? Also I was looking at a tool chain adjustment tool a friend of mine recommended has anyone used this and what are your thoughts?

https://fortnine.ca/en/motion-pro-chain-alignment-tool?gclid=CjwKCAiAweXTBRAhEiwAmb3Xu-Gu7mT-yoKSitRdRS6QFpD8b4es4iUiN3H07Pk_EJehQwzLvScpvxoCrb4QAvD_BwE

Thanks
 

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that tool is a sighting aid basically, which is handy,
but you can still sight your chain without one,
especially wheel up on a rear stand..

sighting while turning or spinning the wheel
can give another handy perspective to chain
and individual links condition in action..
 

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that tool is a sighting aid basically, which is handy,
but you can still sight your chain without one,
especially wheel up on a rear stand..

sighting while turning or spinning the wheel
can give another handy perspective to chain
and individual links condition in action..
more good advice thanks shisoshin
 

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The most important measurement is the distance between the swing arm pivot and the rear axle centers. They must be the same on both sides ideally. This how I set my chain adjustment these days. I dont trust the indicator marks on the swing arm.
 

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The chain on my 300r seems to come loose every week or two. I drive it daily as a commuter so I'm probably putting about 150 miles a week on it. Is it normal to have to tighten the chain that often?
 

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How many miles do you have on your odometer James? Generally when chains need regular tensioning it is because they are at the end of their life. Once the inner pins of the chain lose their initial lubrication from manufacture then the wear process spirals. It's hard to re-grease these pins properly because they are protected by the O-rings.
You can shorten your chain life by over-cleaning your chain with harsh solvents that can work their way past the O-rings and wash out the pin grease.
 

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How many miles do you have on your odometer James? Generally when chains need regular tensioning it is because they are at the end of their life. Once the inner pins of the chain lose their initial lubrication from manufacture then the wear process spirals. It's hard to re-grease these pins properly because they are protected by the O-rings.
You can shorten your chain life by over-cleaning your chain with harsh solvents that can work their way past the O-rings and wash out the pin grease.
Interesting. My bike has about 18000 miles but only 3000 on this chain. What chain cleaner do you recommend?
 

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I just wipe the out side of the chain with a rag with some kerosene on it. I used to do the whole toothbrush thing but I was over doing it and reducing my chain life. If your using kero, have a disposable glove on your hand as it stinks!

This from Fortnine may help:
 
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