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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Our OEM battery is a large, heavy brick and the Lithium-Ion batteries are pretty small and lightweight. So if I got a 8 or even a 12 cell battery that possibly fits(OEM=4.45 x 2.76 x 5.12 Inches) I know that it can work to start up and all that, but would our rectifier be able to keep up with 8 or 12 cells? What I mean is, will our OEM rectifier be able to keep that kind of battery at full charge? Normally a regulator will stop charging a battery at a certain point so it won't overcharge. So how does our bike 'sense' how much charge the battery has and know when to stop or keep going? Will our OEM rectifier create that much power?
 

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Every time I have replaced the stock battery with a larger battery the motorcycle's charging system has worked better.

I cant tell you how the CBR300 works but all of the rectifiers I've worked on were just "switches". They were "on" until the battery was charged and "off" when the battery was charged to a certain point.

It seems to me there must be a simple regulator/circuit breaker inside the Lithium battery because over charging a lithium battery is dangerous.

I use an 8 cell lithium but I usually run with both lights on. I think a 12cell would require lengthening one of the battery cables because of fitment issues. Is it worth it?
 

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That's actually a great idea but honestly I'm not too sure about Li Ion batteries.... I've actually had one expand and catch fire on me (but that said I was also abusing it hard for RC stuff). I'd think LiFe/LFE chemistry would be a safer bet for not catching fire and AFAIK LiFe batteries are already used in some eBikes and electric cars to power the motor so it's probably trivial to use it for running all the electrical systems on a gas powered motorcycle.

That said I'm not going to be an early adopter because I like how my bike is right now and I'm definitely looking to upgrade the rider before I upgrade anything else since it's more or less dialled in at my current skill level.
 

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Charging is based on voltage. The system will put out a certain volts at a given rpm, normally higher then the volts of the battery by a volt or two. Putting in an 8 or 12 cell will be fine...but you really only need the same CCA as the stock and should be fine....unless you are running other electricals like heated grips then you'll want at least same CCA and more Ahr.
 

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Bike starter batteries are Li-Fe not Li-Ion. The brand I recommend is AntiGravity made in the USA is more powerful for a given number of cells and isn't much more then all other Li-Fe that are all made in China and just aren't made very well. Example is those china made ones aren't water proof, the case lets water in to the cells and will corrode from the inside without you knowing. The terminals on those china made ones aren't very sturdy either...etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's exactly my reason for wanting more cells. I have 2 HID lights (35w) both on at the same time, halos, devil eyes, led drl's, under carriage led's, lighted side mirrors, and led push button switches with relays all on a 4 cell. I know the led's aren't drawing much and they aren't all on at the same time, but I'd still rather not take a chance of getting stranded.
 

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That's exactly my reason for wanting more cells. I have 2 HID lights (35w) both on at the same time, halos, devil eyes, led drl's, under carriage led's, lighted side mirrors, and led push button switches with relays all on a 4 cell. I know the led's aren't drawing much and they aren't all on at the same time, but I'd still rather not take a chance of getting stranded.
35w is less than the stock incandescent 55w lights.
Your saving 20w each light. Replace the stock tail
light bulb with an LED and save even more.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
35w is less than the stock incandescent 55w lights.
Your saving 20w each light. Replace the stock tail
light bulb with an LED and save even more.
I already have the led integrated tail light. It takes a lot of juice to turn HID lights on. While they're running they're fine.
 
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