[PrinceVapor]

I have a 2020 CB300R

I am trying to get just a little more speed out of my bike, My tac runs at about 7 at 65 mph.
I wanna lower the Tac so there for I don't feel like Im beating the bike up at 65mph and hope to get a little more speed.
I hear something about the plugs? Very new to all this ..
Any help and explain ?
Thanks in advance

 

[kiwi rider]

I have a 2020 CB300R

I am trying to get just a little more speed out of my bike, My tac runs at about 7 at 65 mph.
I wanna lower the Tac so there for I don't feel like Im beating the bike up at 65mph and hope to get a little more speed.
I hear something about the plugs? Very new to all this ..
Any help and explain ?
Thanks in advance

Nothing to do with the plugs, you change your gearing ratio by swapping the sprockets (s) out for different size ones. Most common, easiest and cheapest option is to swap the front sprocket from 14 teeth to 15.
Some info here: 2020 CB300R Drive Sprocket

 

[PrinceVapor]

Yes Sprockets, I was told that also, I was told for best result in tuning down the back end giving it the ability to lower the RPM in higher gears. So I should go with the 15 teeth sprocket?And do it in the front Sprocket?

 

[kiwi rider]

Yes Sprockets, I was told that also, I was told for best result in tuning down the back end giving it the ability to lower the RPM in higher gears. So I should go with the 15 teeth sprocket?And do it in the front Sprocket?

Yep. If your not comfortable doing the job yourself then get a shop to do it. Changing the gearing by only one tooth will not be a problem with your stock chain length but the axle will sit slightly further forward in the slot.

 

[MrBonepenny]

I have a 2020 CB300R

Your bike is made to run high rpm. It is built for it. I have a 2019 with 30k miles. It is singing at 7 or 8k. That’s where the power is up in the r’s. Don’t be afraid to wind it up.
I usually run the highway 70 mph to 75. Seems like a good speed for a naked bike. Not overly windy and keeps up with traffic. I’m in Arizona btw.
if you haven’t already, turn the fkng blinking light off. I have mine set to blink at redline, 10.5k. I hope this helps.

 

[MrBonepenny]

Don’t change the gearing. You won’t need too. Get used to the high rpm. It isn’t a car motor.

 

[Gromit]

Change the front sprocket to 15T. My rev counter shows 6 K revs at 60 mph, 8K at 80 mph etc. Makes the first gear much more useable and I don't notice any needing more clutch use to start. Mines at 11K miles.
kiwi - the turbine was not good so replaced with normal engine.

 

[kiwi rider]

Change the front sprocket to 15T. My rev counter shows 60 K revs at 60 mph, 80K at 80 mph etc. Makes the first gear much more useable and I don't notice any needing more clutch use to start. Mines at 11K miles.

60K RPM Gromit! Have you transplanted a turbine engine in there on the quiet 😄

But yes I agree with you, the 15T front sprocket conversion is an easy and effective way of lowering your cruising RPM's and other benefits.

 

[BigMullet]

I didn’t like running 8k rpms on the bypass so I put a 15 tooth on the front and a 33 tooth on the back. First gear isn’t completely worthless anymore. I’m not shifting into 4th as I’m leaving intersections. When I’m on the interstate, it’s hard to accelerate quickly in 6th gear but it maintains without struggle. Feel free to drop down to 5th and overtake with ease.

 

[motorboy]

It's time we talk about the elephant in the room-which is the speed these bikes go and can cruise at-first the design of an engine has a torque peak this is where the engine is working it's best max twist(notice I did not say HP)with good economy and minimal stress-exceed this number for long distance stress and heat build up and engine life is shortened-so with this bike 6,500 RPM is it and that works out to 60 mph or 100kmph stock gearing like it or not this is the number and I'm sure someone is going to say -well I cruise at 8k all day no problem-and my answer is yes I'm sure you get away with it for now but for how long before your engine blows or you just grind it down to nothing-just look at how many people have blown up this engine bet they all ran the engine over the max torque figure for a long time-this engine should last a very long time-hard to say how long but with proper oil changes max 4,000 miles-Honda's silly 8,000 mile change interval is just that silly-you should get min 40,000 miles on this engine or more-you want to go faster buy a bigger bike but the max tourque figure still applies to all bikes or all internal combustion engines for that matter

 

[BigMullet]

Correction. I reported the wrong setup. I’m currently running a 15t up front with a 35t rear. The 33t rear is for when the 14t stock sprocket was used up front.(9-10 percent taller) I’ve changed sprockets several times to figure out what will work. A 15/33 combo is 16.9% taller and I cannot recommend it, even with performance upgrades.
I don’t run a factory exhaust, intake, or fuel map so the 6 speeds I travel at are “in the money”(torque) in 1st through 6th gear. The sprockets I use are JTR 279’s and they don’t mount up without a machine shop. They are some of the “least machining required” sprockets you will find.

 

[kiwi rider]

Lowering the final drive ratio via sprocket changes keeps you in the peak torque zone but at a higher speed. I geared my CBR up by 13% so I was doing around 70 MPH at 6,500 RPM but it's hard to remember exactly. I think my sprocket combo was 15/34.

 

[2dtimecb'r]

Way back in the mid '70's I had a CB360T and I experimented with +1,2 and 3 teeth larger sprockets to reduce the engine rpm at highway speed as mentioned here. I found the +3 tooth(18 teeth) too tall such that the engine would not pull past about 7000 rpm and did not increase the speed exceptionally. The +2 tooth sprocket was a little better than the +3 but did call for more foot work with the gear shifter. Not so much as the +3 tooth but still a little aggravating. Best was the +1 tooth but after all I decided the Honda engineers knew what they were doing in the first place so really no need to swap sprockets. These little bikes are built to rev! The red line on my new CB300R single is probably higher than the 360 twins. Update 10/5 : checked the 300R tach and it looks like it has a 10,500 rpm redline which is the same as the 350 and 360 twins that I owned (if memory serves me correctly).

 

[Retro]

So what's the consensus, 15 front and 35 back? I want to lengthen the gearing and lower the highway revs to nit stress the engine for a 90 min hwy ride at 70mph. Note that if have a 2019 CB300R and not the CBR sport.

 

[motorboy]

You may be going to far if gearing is to high you put more stress on the engine than stock-15T counter OK anything more wouldn't do it-sounds like another case of expecting to much out of 286cc-you need a 500 minimum

 

[Darmie]

What do you use to recal the speedometer with these gear changes?

 

[kiwi rider]

What do you use to recal the speedometer with these gear changes?

If you swap the stock 14T front for a 15T it gets rid of most of the built in speedo error. So it's a win/win.

 

[Gromit]

What do you use to recal the speedometer with these gear changes?

With the 15T my speedo reads 1 - 2 mph more than the GPS. Had the same on my CBR300R.