[Cropper]

I figure the new 300 is going to have quite a bit more pull between 3-5K, the 250 is basically non existent until you crack 5K. CBR300R should be alot better around town, if not more fuel efficient because you can play in the low numbers in the city with more than enough grunt.... just my 2.

 

[Ortega]

usually when you go with an engine that is bigger you get more lower end performance. i want to hear what someone who owns a 250 has to say about the 300 once it comes out and how much of a difference there is with low-end

 

[CBRninja]

time will tell. its a matter of time until we see a CBR250 vs CBR300 drag race.

 

[Dave]

I have a K&N airfilter in my CBR250 and it completely changed the bottom and mid range.

Amazing difference, now you can upshift to get more power!

The longer stroke of the new 300 should mean more difference to low and mid range anyway.

If you have a 250 and want more low and mid power, get an aftermarket airfilter, you won't be sorry.

 

[Ortega]

I have a K&N airfilter in my CBR250 and it completely changed the bottom and mid range.

Amazing difference, now you can upshift to get more power!

The longer stroke of the new 300 should mean more difference to low and mid range anyway.

If you have a 250 and want more low and mid power, get an aftermarket airfilter, you won't be sorry.

that's awesome

do you actually see yourself getting a 300 or might you sick with the 250?

 

[Cropper]

I have a K&N airfilter in my CBR250 and it completely changed the bottom and mid range.

Amazing difference, now you can upshift to get more power!

The longer stroke of the new 300 should mean more difference to low and mid range anyway.

If you have a 250 and want more low and mid power, get an aftermarket airfilter, you won't be sorry.

Good tip Dave, figure that the results will be even better on the 300. You done anything else to yours?

 

[Ortega]

did you or are you going to get a tail tidy kit?

 

[MotoMike]

A word of caution...

K&N air filters allow more fine dust and dirt to pass through the filter, which is the trade off you make for having a more free flowing filter. I ran a K&N air filter on my XR650L for a few years, and was less than impressed at how much dust and dirt was finding its way into the intake tract, and ultimately the engine. Since then, I've gone back to the stock OEM Honda air filter in my XR650L (all my other bikes have OEM Honda filters as well).

Bottom line, if you choose to go with a K&N air filter, plan on more frequent cleaning and oiling of the air filter, especially if you live and ride in dusty areas. In my CBR250R, I've been running the OEM Honda air filter since the bike was new... the original air filter did it's job for the full recommended service interval of 12,000 miles, and really wasn't very dirty on the outside when I changed it out. And the inside of the filter was spotless. Plus, the Honda air filter is inexpensive... about $10 USD.

 

[Cropper]

I've heard the reusable/rinseable filters are not half bad. At least then the increased cleaning/changing interval would less expensive as the filter does not need to be "replaced"

 

[Ortega]

I've heard the reusable/rinseable filters are not half bad. At least then the increased cleaning/changing interval would less expensive as the filter does not need to be "replaced"

that is true, over time that can save you money, more money for beer

 

[MotoMike]

I've heard the reusable/rinseable filters are not half bad. At least then the increased cleaning/changing interval would less expensive as the filter does not need to be "replaced"

that is true, over time that can save you money, more money for beer

Not really... a K&N air filter for the CBR250R (which should be the same filter P/N used for the CBR300R) costs about $50 USD, plus $20 for K&N's Recharger kit (cleaner & oil) = $70.

The OEM Honda air filter is $10 (even less than that if bought online). So the cost of seven Honda air filters ($70) would be good for a total of 84,000 miles. On top of that, with the OEM Honda air filters, there is no cleaning and oiling maintenance*... just install a new one and you're good to go.

In other words, you'd have to use a K&N air filter for over 80,000 miles before it would start to 'save' money. And that's assuming the engine lasts that long using a so called 'free flowing' air filter known to let dust and dirt into the engine.



* With a K&N air filter, the filter has to be completely dry after cleaning it before you can re-oil it. Then the oil needs to 'set up' before you can put the filter back into service on the bike.




.

 

[Dave]

Good tip Dave, figure that the results will be even better on the 300. You done anything else to yours?

Not yet. It's runs great with only the K&N. The stock breathing system is far too choked up and restricted. There's a lot of low and mid range power there choked up in the over restrictive filter.

I was going to change the pipe and get a fuel controller, but it's so much better like this I haven't bothered, and don't really feel the need to.

 

[Dave]

that's awesome

do you actually see yourself getting a 300 or might you sick with the 250?

I'll stick with the 250.

I'm sure the 300 will look great in the flesh when it's released, but I don't think it's worth upgrading to a bike with only 30 something more CC.

Upgrading to the 500 would make more sense.

 

[Cropper]

Not really... a K&N air filter for the CBR250R (which should be the same filter P/N used for the CBR300R) costs about $50 USD, plus $20 for K&N's Recharger kit (cleaner & oil) = $70.

The OEM Honda air filter is $10 (even less than that if bought online). So the cost of seven Honda air filters ($70) would be good for a total of 84,000 miles. On top of that, with the OEM Honda air filters, there is no cleaning and oiling maintenance*... just install a new one and you're good to go.

In other words, you'd have to use a K&N air filter for over 80,000 miles before it would start to 'save' money. And that's assuming the engine lasts that long using a so called 'free flowing' air filter known to let dust and dirt into the engine.


* With a K&N air filter, the filter has to be completely dry after cleaning it before you can re-oil it. Then the oil needs to 'set up' before you can put the filter back into service on the bike.

.

my point being that if you up the intervals on the K&N you can clean and "recharge/replace" whenever you want. I've heard the oiled replaceable ones can and will actually catch much more of the finer particulates because they stick or catch on the oiled mesh.

 

[westgl]

I agree with Motormike a K&N air filter turn your bikes engine into a vacuum cleaner, I know our streets need to be cleaned but thats not the way to do it.
For better breathing:
I usually mod my OEM air filter, by pulling off the metal fire screen, it is a flame buster screen that they put on every OEM air filter.
I take that off, usually I get better breathing out of the bike.
Cleaning a OEM Air Filter:
I can, and do, clean the OEM air filter, they are usually a very high quality papery cottony material, that is almost like a hard cotton, when the OEM air Filter gets dirty,
I buy a second air OEM Filter to replace it while I clean the dirty air filter, and have it on the shelf and ready for next maintenance.
I then drop the dirty filter in a bucket of water with some dish washing liquid in it, swish it around a little bit and then let it sit in the water solution for about an hour, go back a swish the water around some more let it sit another hour, then swish it some more back and fourth several more times then take it out and knock the majority of the water out of the filter.
then let it dry on your bench for a few days.
I have also used a compressor to blow the water out of one i need to use by the next day, just hole the compressor nozzle far enough away not to damage the filter but to blow the water out.
Between the two filters they should last you a long time.
I can clean a good quality OEM air Filter at least 4 times before I have to replace it.