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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have about 300 miles on my bike. I've started to have problems with the gear shifting.

Scenario 1: I'll be on the highway and come to a stop. As I'm slowing, I'll shift down down down down...but around 2 or 3, it doesn't catch any more, no matter how many times I try. So I'll be stuck in 3rd or 4th

Scenario 2: The bike is off. I arm the engine but don't turn the ignition on. I try to shift out of neutral (either to 1st or 2nd) and it doesn't ever catch. It refuses to catch until I hit the ignition and the bike turns on

Anyone have any causes or fixes for either of these two scenarios?
 

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Sorry, no. Something's wrong with your clutch. The only shifting issues I've read about are difficulty getting into 1st from N when stopped. Take it back to the dealer. I wouldn't even attempt to adjust the clutch cable or clutch on a new bike like this.
 

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I wouldn't necessarily say it's an issue with the clutch, it sounds like a gearbox problem. Get it back to the dealer and have them check it out... that's why you have a warranty.
 
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it could be a big issue, or it could be something as simple as the clutch cable being incorrectly adjusted. is there a lot of slop in your clutch lever? either way I'd say have the dealer check it out
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds good; I'll drop it off to the dealership tomorrow afternoon. Thanks for the recommendation!

Lyman: When I press down on the lever, the shifter moves like it's supposed to, but it doesn't "catch". So I expect to hear a clunk where it shifts, but there's no shift; the gear lever just moves down with my foot then springs back when I let go
 

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Maybe I'm missing something here? The first problem sounds like the usual issues around finding lower gears if you don't release the clutch between each shift.

The second I don't understand. If you're trying to engage a gear while the engine is off, gears can be hard to find - that's normal. As with the first problem, bike gearboxes are often reluctant to shift unless cogs are actually turning.

If the engine is off and you can't find a gear, try rocking the bike to and from with the clutch released (i.e. when you're not pulling the lever). You should find a gear that way, in which case maybe there isn't a problem - it's just the vagaries of bike gearboxes.
 

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I have about 300 miles on my bike. I've started to have problems with the gear shifting.

Scenario 1: I'll be on the highway and come to a stop. As I'm slowing, I'll shift down down down down...but around 2 or 3, it doesn't catch any more, no matter how many times I try. So I'll be stuck in 3rd or 4th
another question I should have asked, when you're downshifting from 6th, are you letting out your clutch between each shift? if you're just holding in the lever and clicking down through the gears, that would make sense as to why the bike is reluctant to shift. also, it's just good practice to clutch in, shift down, ease out the clutch, using the engine's natural braking to slow you down. it's kinder to your gearbox, and your brakes. it's the way it was designed to be operated.
 

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Maybe I'm missing something here? The first problem sounds like the usual issues around finding lower gears if you don't release the clutch between each shift.

The second I don't understand. If you're trying to engage a gear while the engine is off, gears can be hard to find - that's normal. As with the first problem, bike gearboxes are often reluctant to shift unless cogs are actually turning.

If the engine is off and you can't find a gear, try rocking the bike to and from with the clutch released (i.e. when you're not pulling the lever). You should find a gear that way, in which case maybe there isn't a problem - it's just the vagaries of bike gearboxes.
Good catch. After re-reading the opening post, I think you're on to something here... it sounds like he may have been trying to downshift through the gears all at once without re-engaging the clutch between each downshift.
 
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Good catch. After re-reading the opening post, I think you're on to something here... it sounds like he may have been trying to downshift through the gears all at once without re-engaging the clutch between each downshift.
On my R6, I could downshift each gear while holding the clutch in (once). Are you saying that on the CBR, you'll need to engage/release the clutch as you down shift each gear?
 

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On my R6, I could downshift each gear while holding the clutch in (once). Are you saying that on the CBR, you'll need to engage/release the clutch as you down shift each gear?
This is considered to be the proper downshifting technique for any manual clutch & gearbox equipped motorcycle.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You guys totally nailed it...I pull the clutch in, then down shift 3 or 4 gears so the gear matches the speed. Is that a big no-no? Is that confirmed to be the problem?

In regards to the other problem, the bike will have the power engaged, and the engine "armed" but the ignition off, and it'll refuse to go to either 1 or 2 from neutral, no matter how much intelligence and/or force I put into the shift

Dudes, you totally know your sh*t
 

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On my R6, I could downshift each gear while holding the clutch in (once). Are you saying that on the CBR, you'll need to engage/release the clutch as you down shift each gear?
You don't have to, but most of the bikes I have owned would baulk at going down more than two or three gears in one go - it varies bike to bike. All I'm saying is that this trait is not a fault per se but a common characteristic of bike gearboxes.

If I know I'm going to stop, I often pull the clutch in and tap down through as many gears as the bike will allow then, if I need to go lower and the bike doesn't want to (presumably because the free-wheeling cogs have now stopped turning), I let the clutch out briefly before trying again.

These are just idiosyncracies typical of bikes and among the things that new riders have to adjust to.
 
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....In regards to the other problem, the bike will have the power engaged, and the engine "armed" but the ignition off, and it'll refuse to go to either 1 or 2 from neutral, no matter how much intelligence and/or force I put into the shift
I don't know what you're saying here - we are separated by a common language :D

Is the engine running, or not?
 

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You guys totally nailed it...I pull the clutch in, then down shift 3 or 4 gears so the gear matches the speed. Is that a big no-no? Is that confirmed to be the problem?
IMO, it is. As I said in my previous post, you should re-engage the clutch between each downshift, and match your road speed to each subsequent lower gear.

In regards to the other problem, the bike will have the power engaged, and the engine "armed" but the ignition off, and it'll refuse to go to either 1 or 2 from neutral, no matter how much intelligence and/or force I put into the shift...
You've totally lost me with what you mean by "... the power engaged, and the engine "armed" but the ignition off..." :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
JNO, you totally got it with the "rocking to and fro"....gear engaged no problem!

MotoMike, I had meant "Key switched on, engine armed, but I haven't pressed the ignition yet". So the engine is off.

Sounds like everyone has solved all my mysteries !
 

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The shifting into 1st from neutral issue threw me when I first got my bike too. I eventually figured out the rocking back and forth trick, but after some time on this forum, I learned that all I had to do was let the clutch out very slightly and it would slip into gear every time. Now that I have some more miles on the bike, this problem seems to have gone away. It will occasionally happen, but most of the time now it just goes right into first without a problem
 

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This is considered to be the proper downshifting technique for any manual clutch & gearbox equipped motorcycle.
I've been doing it all wrong then. lol I've just found it a lot easier to hold the clutch and down shift while braking. It helps show the car behind you that you're slowing down with the taillight being lit up. I've tried downshifting while engaging/releasing the clutch through each gear, but then it slows the bike down naturally through engine braking which makes it a little more difficult to hold in your rear brake since it's almost unnecessary. That means no brake light for the car behind you to see you're slowing down. Just IMO, I'm sure after getting used to it, I'll learn to "gently" press the rear brake pedal while slipping the gears down one by one. It'll just involve more brainpower than my R6 lol Thanks for the correction on this MotoMike
 

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I've been doing it all wrong then. lol I've just found it a lot easier to hold the clutch and down shift while braking. It helps show the car behind you that you're slowing down with the taillight being lit up. I've tried downshifting while engaging/releasing the clutch through each gear, but then it slows the bike down naturally through engine braking which makes it a little more difficult to hold in your rear brake since it's almost unnecessary. That means no brake light for the car behind you to see you're slowing down. Just IMO, I'm sure after getting used to it, I'll learn to "gently" press the rear brake pedal while slipping the gears down one by one. It'll just involve more brainpower than my R6 lol Thanks for the correction on this MotoMike
Something else I'd recommend, is adjusting your rear brake light switch so that the brake light comes on before the pads make contact with the brake disc, which will then allow you to 'show' the brake light without actually having to use the rear brake while downshifting and rev matching to the road speed.

At the same time you'll want to make sure that you have at least a couple mm of pedal movement before the brake light comes on to insure that you don't end up with the brake light on all the time, which would quickly burn out the bulb filament.
 
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iirc. I remember in the MSF course I took, they had us come to a stop matching speed to each downshift, but I remember them having us hold in the clutch the entire time while downshifting. Is this technique of engage/release each downshift a "must" with the CBR? or will the gearbox not allow it??
 

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Something else I'd recommend, is adjusting your rear brake light switch so that the brake light comes on before the pads make contact with the brake disc, which will then allow you to 'show' the brake light without actually having to use the rear brake while downshifting and rev matching to the road speed.

At the same time you'll want to make sure that you have at least a couple mm of pedal movement before the brake light comes on to insure that you don't end up with the brake light on all the time, which would quickly burn out the bulb filament.
This is good advice. that is how i have my brake light sensor set up, and if there are cars behind me and i'm going to slow down to make a turn or a stop at a light, I always give the rear brake pedal 3 light taps, not enough to apply actual braking force, but to make the brake light flash 3 times to grab the attention of whoever is behind me. I also do this with plenty of distance between me and my turning/stopping point, so that even after the flash, I can apply brakes and slow down very gradually, giving the follower more time to adjust to my change in speed. I think most car drivers don't realize that motorcycles are capable of slowing down much faster than pretty much anything else on the road, so the learned response to seeing brake lights on a car allows for a little more reaction time than on a bike, so I try to make sure I give them that extra reaction time, mostly because i don't want a bmw inside my anal cavity.
 
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