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With a growing number of CBR300 owners comes more reported problems and concerns. Fortunately in some case there are either solutions or better
direction provided to understand what's going on. In some of the most active discussions on problems below, this is exactly what you'll find. If you're experiencing any problems not covered below or mentioned throughout on this community, talk about here and/or in the Warranty and Service Issues section. Finally, don't forget to subscribe to discussion threads related to your problem/issue for the latest updates!

Vibration Noise At High RPM

For about a week a was getting a noise that sounded like the fairing vibrating around the headlight every time I had gone above 8,000 rpm. It would get so loud sometimes my mind would make the noise louder than the exhaust. Well, I tightened-loosened-tightened every allen bolt and it still was making the noise. inspected around the radiator area a dozen times and no luck. However, I didn't touch the under cowl because I swear it was coming from the head light area. Yesterday a small leaf was stuck to the underside of the bike and when I pulled it off I saw the under cowl move. When I changed the oil 900 miles ago I must have not tightened the highlighted bolt in the picture because it was 2 complete turns of the wrench loose. Took the bike for a ride and no more noise. I knew there was nothing wrong with the bike the whole time because it wasn't a sound that an engine and transmission makes but it did get kind of frustrating not being able to locate what part of the fairing was loose.
Sooo, I finally got to test the "fuel cap causes the rattle theory" today after many days past since this post.
And yes, it has been confirmed, in my case anyway, that the fuel cap was causing that humming/rattle at a higher RPM. I pressed on it as suggested and it stopped. So during the next dismount I made at my brothers house, I took the cap off and re-secured it and that pretty much took care of it.

So yeah, it fixed mine, thanks!
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Problems Shifting Into Neutral

Hey guys! Maybe it's just me cuz I'm a newbie in the moto world but have you guys experienced the gear not being able to go to neutral? I was stopped at the traffic light and my left hand was tired from pressing the clutch... So I decided to put it to neutral but it's not letting me or sometimes if I find it it's stuck there... What am I doing wrong? Please help!
deleted a long explanation with physiology etc..

basically; accelerating from lights etc, last thing
you want is to change from first into, neutral[!]
sequential gearbox designed, to not go into
neutral but into second..

do not sit at lights etc in neutral..
always be in first gear, clutch fully in
while waiting for lights to change..

always be ready to take off in an instant
if necessary.. cars will enter the road space
of motorcycles, from the side or rear..
one advantage motorcycles have is avoidance,
ability to move quickly and into small spaces..
at lights or in traffic your readiness includes
being in the best gear and ready, which means
first, clutch in, when stopped at lights etc..

every time you hold clutch in,, your brain
and its fingers etc will, resond to the small
load by developing better flexion, strength
and endurance.. whenever you do not,
do this normal action, brain and fingers etc
miss out on yet another small improvement..

the slower you approach lights etc, including
last approach down to walking pace in needed,
the less time you spend sitting there waiting,
plus the advantage of the rolling start should
the lights change before you come to stop..
slow riding is easy practice anyone can do
almost anywhere and at any time..
and is very, beneficial incl for clutching etc..

when you stop in first at lights etc, rest forward
slightly, into the bars, allowing wrists to flex a bit, while pulling clutch lever fully or almost
fully into bar.. this allows maximum strength
and efficiency of all fingers..

dont think of it as something to be avoided,,
rather as just another opportunity to develop
another aspect of motorcycle riding skill
and the hand skill that comes with riding...
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Bike Dies Without Warning

It's January and I know most of you have your bike tucked in for the winter, but here in sunny AZ it is prime riding weather.

Just wondering if any of you currently riding have had any issues with your bike suddenly dying on you. This happened to me on Monday; out for a nice ride and 20 miles from home the bike just died as I was heading down the road. Pulled over and tried to start it but would just turn over without starting (yes, I had plenty of gas in the tank). Finally got it to start but then it would sputter and die on me over and over. I bought it brand new last month and it only has a couple hundred miles on it.

It is currently at the dealer getting checked out. They suggested I could have got a bad batch of gas on my last fill. I will report back when I get my bike back.
On my second trip out on my CBR300R I suffered from loss of power :(

On my first trip a few days ago I had filled the bike full of fuel a few miles away. I'd ridden a total of 82 miles on my 2 trips before I started experiencing problems.

On my first trip out, I didn't feel as though the CBR300R was as responsive as my CRF250L, but I put this down to its newness.

On my second trip after turning round to head home, the CBR would not pull more than 4000rpm / 30 - 40mph depending on the gear. Over a few miles this reduced to 9mph and the CBR kept dying. The CBR would always start back up first time and idled fine. Increase the revs and it would die :( .

I called a recovery truck to take me home. There were no warning lights, if the fuel had been dodgy, then it wouldn't idle, perhaps there was a fuel pressure problem?

Taking the seat off, my satnav spare wiring which I had put in a bag to keep it clean was in the air filter inlet! I had been riding some bumpy roads so guess it got dislodged and sucked in!

I've rerouted the wiring and wedged it under the battery strap so hopefully the problem is solved? I will go for another ride in a day or so.
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CB300F Issues, Quirks, Problems

I have about 600 miles on the CB300F now so I thought it would be helpful to mention a couple of issues with the new bike. These aren't really problems as much as annoyances, but I don't know if it is just my bike or all the CB300Fs


1. First, that chain stretched very quickly. By 40 miles mine was sagging and way out of specs. I did do a hard break-in so I'm sure that contributed. The good news is that since I adjusted the chain, it has stayed in specs for over 500 miles now. I think you can expect the chain to stretch early.


2. It's hard to get into 1st from N when you are stopped. This is a fairly common issue with bikes. The good news is, the bike is so light you can just roll it forward or backward a couple of inches and it will slip into first.


3. The kickstand keeps the bike more upright than with other motorcycles. I might even worry about parking in a strong wind. It helps to turn the bike to the left as you would do to lock the bike. That gives it a little more lean, but the issue I have is that I always get on and off a bike with the kickstand down. Getting on is no problem since the seat is low, but getting off is harder than any other bike I have ever owned because instead of just sliding off on the left side, you have to work at both scooting off and not allowing the bike to get even more upright. Hard to explain any better than that and I am getting used to it. I think this will be a bigger issue with shorter riders.


4. One other issue has to do with riding in 1st gear as you would around a gas station or parking lot. First gear is really jumpy. As an experienced rider, I have no problem since I know how to handle the throttle and clutch, but I can see a new rider losing balance as the bike jumps. I would call this issue poor throttle control in 1st gear.


5. When I ride aggressively and completely let off the throttle, I get this rattling sound. It doesn't do it if I slowly release the throttle or if I am shifting gears at the lower range. If you don't ride like I do, you might never even notice it. Or it might not be present on your bike. I can do it in any gear. I see there is a rattling noise some have reported with the CBR250R at about 5000 rpms, but I don't think this is the same thing since I can make it occur in any gear at all higher rpms.


Does anyone else have any of these issues? If not do you have any other issues.
 

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Instead of this single thread to cover all manner of problems and issues, the site should really have a dedicated forum titled Problems & Issues (just as the CBR250.net site does). At the same time, I'd suggest changing the title of the Warranty & Service forum, to the Service & Maintenance forum... again just as it is on the CBR250.net site.

I think these changes would go a long way towards eliminating confusion on the part of those posting new threads, ie. which forum the topic belongs in, as well as those who may be looking for information on those topics. As it is, having this one 'catch all' thread for all potential problems and issues won't make for easy searching of topics... one would literally have to start reading at page 1 of the thread in hopes of finding what they are looking for.

Anyway just my 2 cents on the matter.
 

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^ Say porky who?

OP: Problems on this bike? What problems??

LoL. :p
 

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I'm glad the rattling issue is solved. I saw online that only one or two users had it, the rest seemed not to have it; so an isolated incident.


I don't agree with the neutral comment.
I spend a lot of time in Neutral; I just think it's better to get into neutral when rolling to a stop, than to get into it when standing still.
Sometimes you want to be in neutral (like starting up the bike and idling, riding it to the gate and getting off to open the gate while the bike is idling, passing the gate, then getting off again to close the gate, before riding it on the open road...).
A lot of reasons to be in neutral, but it's still not an excuse to have a hard time getting into neutral.


Have the fuel issues been solved?
The first one seems like what you get from riding with the choke on (if it had any).


The chain issue can be attributed to the rear wheel axle nut not being tightened enough, or the adjustment not done well. Should be an isolated incident.


The kickstand issue is a real issue, that can easily be solved by a mechanic, but not by a leek.
They can visit their dealers to get it fixed, or if they have a friend working as a mechanic, he can do it for a tip money.


The 1st gear issue can be reduced by adjusting the chain, and using the clutch more; or increasing gearing to a heavier gear.
(or to a lighter gear, and instead depart from second gear).


Without more information on the rattling noise, I could presume that it can be the sound of muffled backfiring, when the bike decelerates, and the FI system is injecting too little fuel, in order to save fuel. This is a harmless thing though...
 

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for anyone having difficulties finding neutral
such as when parked and suchlike, aside from
tricks like slightly releasing clutch to allow slight
uptake of clutchplates then releasing, then into neutral,
one simple factor with can effect shifting to neutral
is very light, soft, movement - the opposite of force
or stomping on the lever -

sometimes it requires the lightest of touches
and on comes the neutral light..
ie, when using force fails..

this is not a situation where force is needed
or where force will help this process..

the nature of this mechanism, which causes
the neutral light to shine, is not just a gear
moving into another gear.. not gear teeth
surfaces needing to be forced into contact..

think of it as if a small additional extra thing
and not another gear, such as first, second etc..
think of moving - out of - gear, not into another gear..

try it yourself...
next time you mount your motorcycle,
during whatever startup and take off you do
or anytime when riding/stopping etc,
just lightly touch the pedal with toes,,
as if just making contact with it,
not as if pushing or stomping on it..

you might be [pleasantly] surprised..
 

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Just in the last couple of days I've had trouble shifting down into neutral. Very sticky & often skips down into 1st!

Could be something to do with my deer damaged bike, but will see when it's repaired if it still has the same issue.
 

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Just in the last couple of days I've had trouble shifting down into neutral. Very sticky & often skips down into 1st!

Could be something to do with my deer damaged bike, but will see when it's repaired if it still has the same issue.
i have this issue as well, bike is almost 2 months old and i have 840 miles on it and it started the same issue late last week for me. it only goes into neutral when cold oddly enough. either it goes up to 2nd or down to 1st. a light tough or a hard stomp does not resolve issue. i'll see what Honda says about it.
 

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if ti goes up to 2nd or down to 1st
its going 'thru neutral'..

stop for a moment, direct your attention to
your lever and toes, then simply tap it
up or down from 1st or 2nd, into neutral..
 

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Backfire and stop at idle.! When putting in 1; st gear. ( All know even Honda trolls. )

Hi I have one 250R before 2012 model.
Now I have an 300r 2015 model.

Have the same problem with both. Where I live waiting in
traffic light can be up to 90 secund.

So I use to find zero and wait.-- getting gren light,
putting in first an the engine backfire and died. ( For me it is bad programming ! ) ECU ?

Happend many times. ( Very fun when You have an big truck on your back. ! )

Have not yet reading anything about an solotion.

Bla- Bla gasolin psyko newbee
 

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Backfire and stop at idle.! When putting in 1; st gear. ( All know even Honda trolls. )

Hi I have one 250R before 2012 model.
Now I have an 300r 2015 model.

Have the same problem with both. Where I live waiting in
traffic light can be up to 90 secund.

So I use to find zero and wait.-- getting gren light,
putting in first an the engine backfire and died. ( For me it is bad programming ! ) ECU ?

Happend many times. ( Very fun when You have an big truck on your back. ! )

Have not yet reading anything about an solotion.

Bla- Bla gasolin psyko newbee
How much free play (or 'slack') do you have at the clutch lever?
 

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never had that problem with cbr250r
or two cbr300r's..
then again i typically wait at lights
with clutch lever drawn in, ready..

occasionally tho i might drop into neutral
on reaching [the front] at lights, if theyve
only just gone to red, to adjust mirrors
or yoga mat bag or helmet ventilation
or visor etc, but then back into first..
never a problem in any case..

that truck, or any vehicle, could be coming
from anywhere at any time, as you sit
there in neutral..

the more you change gears using fingers
holding clutch lever in for a moment
or a few seconds or 90secs, the better
your finger strength will, become..
this is just a fact of the matter
in riding motorcycles..

[your 'backfire' never experienced either]

aside from technique [which we cant see]
it must be either clutch or engine revs..
try adjusting clutch as MM notes
and aside from using clutch lever
give her a short rev then raise revs
a little from idle as you prepare
to take off on the green..


taking off from lights is sort of like
starting in even a fun foot race,
ready, set,, go
every little preparation
makes it easier and better..
 

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Yes.this did happen to me once on my 300 R. Waiting at a stop light..just gave it a little gas... backfire ..die. So far (knock on wood) has not happened since. But I now do use " High Test" fuel Ethanol free..so perhaps that has an effect.
 
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basically, dont use ethanol if avoidable
and use 91ron or usa 87[ ron + mon/2]..

there is no discernable difference, no extra
performance using slow burning higher octane..
burning rate in combustion chamber is based on
compression ratio, our cr being 10.7 : 1..
compare cb400sf 11.3:1, cbr600rr 12.2:1,
moto3 250cc racer 15:1..

higher cr need slower burning higher octane rating
petrol to avoid pre-ignition.. our cr is designed
for 91ron/87pon octane rated faster burning petrol..
hondas engine designers understand flame throw
and relative burning effects in combustion chamber,
resulting in recommended 91ron/87pon octane fuel..
ie, what will work best in our motorcycles..

sons cb400superfour uses 95ron at 11.3:1 cr..
while we can use it in our 10.7:1 combustion
chambers, it isnt going to increase performance..
only if for some reason you are experiencing
pre-ignition would high octane have an effect
[slowing burn rate reducing pre-ignition]
 

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I have so it is realy lose.

What makes it an problem for me is that, this bike is used

and previus owner put same Bremco things on it, and take the

clutch switch away so I have to find neutral on an not running

motor ! !

And again, I think that I have to had little RPM before gearing.

But yesterday I was out with my friend CBR250R. 2015

So when he leave I see him reving up and down, ( He is younger than me. )

before leave, and he backfire and stop. Ok he do not care just start again and go !
 

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this feedback separated from above response
as part of cbr300 warranty matters but not
related to the above questions on ethanol etc..

anyway, having reported here what i was told by
honda dealer when buying replacement cbr300ra;
"unsold bikes had engines replaced in melbourne
by people from thailand" [which i questioned
and he confirmed,, i then emailed honda aust
inquiring about this, given various situations
globally as reported here, including member
opinions as to new engines etc..

so well after two months and two form letters
[ok included xmas break] i finally have a reply
from a relevant honda rep 'ken' who has advised;

"We can advise your current bike came in
with the crankcase bearings already done
no Engine swap as the bike's were shipped
with the new bearing done at the time of
production

The bike [sic] that were under the recall only had the
crankcase bearing and shaft replaced no Engine swap.

Hope this clarifies for you.
Kind Regards,
Ken" unq.

having mentioned context for enquiry included
various feedback to this forum, i have
quoted that honda reply here..
 

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backfire

That's a different one, I have not had this issue with mine, I always use premium gas (just cuz) but being an old mechanic (and just plain old), the only times that I have seen backfire problems are when the plugs (or in this case plug) is not gaped properly but this is strange to have happen in two bikes. It may just be where you live as elevation and humidity can sometimes affect this, if it continues you may try a plug that burns a little hotter like an NGK, stay with the one that Honda recommends but the NGK brand has always worked well for me in a Honda engine and NGK does make different heat ranges for the same engine. Just a thought.
 

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That's a different one, I have not had this issue with mine, I always use premium gas (just cuz) but being an old mechanic (and just plain old), the only times that I have seen backfire problems are when the plugs (or in this case plug) is not gaped properly but this is strange to have happen in two bikes. It may just be where you live as elevation and humidity can sometimes affect this, if it continues you may try a plug that burns a little hotter like an NGK, stay with the one that Honda recommends but the NGK brand has always worked well for me in a Honda engine and NGK does make different heat ranges for the same engine. Just a thought.
These bikes come from spec'ed from the factory with an NGK Iridium spark plug (an expensive one at that). Unless someone had installed an incorrect spark plug in one of these bikes, the spark plug that the Honda installed at the factory is not an issue... it's made for a 30,000 service life.

In an engine that is exhibiting poor performance and is otherwise in proper mechanical & electrical condition, the culprit is more often than not poor quality fuel.
 
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