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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
I did my oil change last night at 255 miles, the oil was very dirty and the filter was a grey colour with tiny metal particles in it, I have attached an image to show. As the user manual was very bad at telling you how to remove the fairing I just unbolted the lower half gently flexed it out, using a 1\4 ratchet made it fairly easy. Its first week of commuting gave me 86.1 mpg (UK gallon), and that was with working the rev range as recommended, once run in properly I expect it to reach 90 mpg hopefully which is outstanding and saves me £720 a year in fuel over the car as I ride all year round apart from snow which is rare where I am.

Mark
 

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Welcome to the club and good for you on changing the oil soon. Filter shows why this should be done. You are lucky that you live in a place that rarely gets snow...
Last winter we had a very unusual amount...2 storms per week for weeks.:crying:
 

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That filter looks nasty. I'm getting around the same mpg. and like you ride all year round. I'm currently researching cost comparisons between tyre manufactures to see what the difference is in price of the OEs and replacements and what benefits there are if any upgrading? As I feel the OEs are just fine so far.
Only time will tell on mileage and how they perform after some serious wear. Mines had the first service and heading quickly towards the first thousand miles, I have had it since 23/6/15 with a weeks riding missed due to holiday.
 

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When I changed my oil, I didn't notice the metal flakes that people are seeing. I changed it a few weeks ago at about 500 miles. The filter was dirty, but neither the filter, nor the oil collected in the pan had those metal bits.

:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
@ CDNHONDAR, lol we get rain much off the time.
@ autopilot, I find the OEM tyres a bit hard and a touch twitchy in the rain but I will run them till its time to replace them.
Its proper 600 service will be in two weeks just to get the warranty stamp, as I intend to use this for a long time I thought it would be wise to change it myself at 250m, luckily I have a family member that gets me discount on all my service bits.
Indepedant George, I didn't do a soft break in but not hrd either, kept it around 5k with blips to 8k, still needed to go higher than that yet, maybe that has something to do with it.
 

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To convert UK mpg figures to US mpg figures divide by 1.2

So Mark's 86.1 = 71.8 which sounds more in-line with most of the other figures we hear on here.

Regarding the first filter change, If you actually pull the used filter apart and unravel the paper element you will find some pretty impressive (or scary!) metal particles in there. I did this when I changed my oil at around 300 miles.
 

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it stands to reason that repetitive movements of mating surfaces
must result in some wear on metals, due to tolerances alone..

i changed oil on all new road hondas
after riding them home [cb450 and first cb750
about 250km from navy base to home]..
used low mile cbr250r and another cb750/4
oil changed asap..
cbr300r new changed after 250km..

all my road hondas started easily..
all reliable and willing road motorcycles..
early oil changes didnt do them any harm,
also lubricating riders peace of mind..
 

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At about 200 miles is when you notice the oil getting dirty on a new bike that you've broken in hard. Motoman break-in calls for an oil change at 50 miles, but when I have done that, the oil always looked new. It even looks pretty new at 100 miles. I also change oil and filter at 200 miles or a little more, and then again at 600 mi. and after that, pretty much by the schedule but usually before schedule and I always change the filter with the oil even though some manuals go 1 or even 2 oil changes before they change the filter. Who knows though? Maybe I'm wasting money, but I don't think so. Peace of mind is worth more than money anyway.
 

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oil filter gasket

I'm doing my first oil change this weekend @ 220 miles. I bought the kit with crush washer n all, even bought the magnetic drain plug(some say it's worthless) but I'll feel a lil safer.
I've seen the diagrams on how to put the filter together, but my question is does the actual filter edge that faces in get a little oil wiped around it for a seal? Other question is does the outside cover gasket go on completely dry?
 

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I'm doing my first oil change this weekend @ 220 miles. I bought the kit with crush washer n all, even bought the magnetic drain plug(some say it's worthless) but I'll feel a lil safer.
I've seen the diagrams on how to put the filter together, but my question is does the actual filter edge that faces in get a little oil wiped around it for a seal? Other question is does the outside cover gasket go on completely dry?
You can put some oil on the rubber grommet of the oil filter, probably not really necessary though as the oil filter housing will be filled with oil once you start the engine.

As for the filter cover gasket, it is a metal gasket and so it goes on dry. Also, make sure you wipe off the machined mating surfaces of the cover & crankcase with a clean rag before reassembly... the smallest piece of dirt or grit on those mating surfaces can cause oil seepage from the cover.
 

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Ok, yah I see the rubber ring on the inside of the filter. Just like a car I'll rub a lil on with my finger. The gasket I got isn't really metal. It's more of fiber? Maybe some metal flake fiber? I mean it bends and could rip if I tried. I got the package straight from Honda. Didn't get the oil yet tho. I see a lot of people use 10w-40, and the manual says 10w-30. I live in Florida and its pretty hot here all year long, never below 65ish. So I'm gonna stick with the 10w-30. It's still under the 600mile mark so I figured to keep it all stock for now. What do you think?
 

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Ok, yah I see the rubber ring on the inside of the filter. Just like a car I'll rub a lil on with my finger. The gasket I got isn't really metal. It's more of fiber? Maybe some metal flake fiber? I mean it bends and could rip if I tried. I got the package straight from Honda. Didn't get the oil yet tho. I see a lot of people use 10w-40, and the manual says 10w-30. I live in Florida and its pretty hot here all year long, never below 65ish. So I'm gonna stick with the 10w-30. It's still under the 600mile mark so I figured to keep it all stock for now. What do you think?
Take a look at the photos in this ebay listing: Honda OIL Filter Gasket CBR250 CBR300R CRF250L CBR 15412 KYJ 901 Honda Ahrma | eBay ... your oil filter cover gasket should look identical to the one shown there. If not, I'm afraid you've got the wrong gasket.
 

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Where can I buy an oil filter, gasket, and washer locally? I live in San Antonio, Texas. I already consulted my owners manual and every label on the bike itself, but the part numbers are not listed anywhere which means I cannot look up which stores to go to. I own a CBR300RAG that is at 315 miles and I feel like I should change the oil ASAP. I notice that the engine makes tiny clinking sounds at speeds around 50MPH and I think that improper lubrication is to blame; maybe also need a valve adjustment.
 

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Where can I buy an oil filter, gasket, and washer locally? I live in San Antonio, Texas. I already consulted my owners manual and every label on the bike itself, but the part numbers are not listed anywhere which means I cannot look up which stores to go to. I own a CBR300RAG that is at 315 miles and I feel like I should change the oil ASAP. I notice that the engine makes tiny clinking sounds at speeds around 50MPH and I think that improper lubrication is to blame; maybe also need a valve adjustment.
OK chap, sounds like it's time to make a cuppa and calm down. :)

At 315 miles you wont be in need of either an oil change or a valve check unless something has gone wrong with your bike.

Here's your scheduled service intervals: (it's in your manual)

First oil and filter change is at 600 miles
First valve clearance inspection is at 16,000 miles

If your engine really is making an abnormal noise tho, then take it to the dealer you purchased it from for the mechanic to have a listen.
While your there you can get the parts you require for your first service if you wish to do it yourself.
 

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I thought that it was recommended to do two full oil changes for a brand new bike even though it contradicts the manual so that the bike finishes its break in with a extremely well lubricated engine. A lot of people say that they do it, so why shouldn't I? I don't have a problem dishing out the extra money if it means a bike that will last longer than usual. Also, the sounds I hear are difficult to pinpoint because I am wearing earplugs at those speeds, so taking it to the dealership might be a waste of money. I have a full warranty, so if it is a defect then I am covered for any repairs. I would just like to know why my owners manual does not specify any part numbers for the bike; all it tells me is the type of oil to use...
 

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I thought that it was recommended to do two full oil changes for a brand new bike even though it contradicts the manual so that the bike finishes its break in with a extremely well lubricated engine. A lot of people say that they do it, so why shouldn't I? I don't have a problem dishing out the extra money if it means a bike that will last longer than usual. Also, the sounds I hear are difficult to pinpoint because I am wearing earplugs at those speeds, so taking it to the dealership might be a waste of money. I have a full warranty, so if it is a defect then I am covered for any repairs. I would just like to know why my owners manual does not specify any part numbers for the bike; all it tells me is the type of oil to use...
Yep, some folk change it early esp if doing the hard break in process.
The oil wont have lost any of it's lubricating properties at that short mileage, it's more about getting the metal particles from the wearing in/mating process out of the system earlier rather than later.

It would be pretty poor form if your dealer charged you for having a quick listen to your bikes engine to give you piece of mind.

Myself, I dont worry about part numbers, you should be able to tell your dealer what model bike you have and he will give you the correct filter and plug washer etc. That's their job.
 

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I thought that it was recommended to do two full oil changes for a brand new bike even though it contradicts the manual so that the bike finishes its break in with a extremely well lubricated engine. A lot of people say that they do it, so why shouldn't I? I don't have a problem dishing out the extra money if it means a bike that will last longer than usual. Also, the sounds I hear are difficult to pinpoint because I am wearing earplugs at those speeds, so taking it to the dealership might be a waste of money. I have a full warranty, so if it is a defect then I am covered for any repairs. I would just like to know why my owners manual does not specify any part numbers for the bike; all it tells me is the type of oil to use...
One of the reasons you won't see part numbers listed in an Owner's Manual, is that over time part numbers can be superseded by a new part number. Also, part number listings need to be for a specific model, whereas an Owner's Manual will cover a range of model variants... ABS, Non-ABS, as well as the different color variants. Same goes for the factory Service Manuals... the only part numbers you'll typically see in a Service Manual are those for special tools.
 
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