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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have a view on what chain lube they prefer/use on their CBR300? I tend to use Muc-Off high performance PTFE spray as it is O/X/Z compatible. I found in the old days using SAE80 oil it flew all over the back wheel and rear mudgard/fender.
 

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90 weight gear oil, hard to find 1 liter bottles of 120 weight. Your not really lubing the chain as its sealed with o rings, your just keeping a film of oil to stop the rust.
I wipe my chain clean, brush fresh on and wipe of excess with oily cloth, chain is clean as a whistle, I do that 2-3 a week in summer when dry and every day its wet, takes 10 minutes at he most. I have no build up of grinding paste in the front sprocket cover and it acts a lot like a scott oiler. Done this with all my chains, 11k with non oring chain, 15k with o ring all 428 chains.
 

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90 weight gear oil, hard to find 1 liter bottles of 120 weight. Your not really lubing the chain as its sealed with o rings, your just keeping a film of oil to stop the rust.
I wipe my chain clean, brush fresh on and wipe of excess with oily cloth, chain is clean as a whistle, I do that 2-3 a week in summer when dry and every day its wet, takes 10 minutes at he most. I have no build up of grinding paste in the front sprocket cover and it acts a lot like a scott oiler. Done this with all my chains, 11k with non oring chain, 15k with o ring all 428 chains.
""90 weight gear oil, hard to find 1 liter bottles of 120 weight""..Do you mean you use one or the other? Brush..soft paint brush? I imagine that over all this would be cheaper than buying off the shelf "Chain lube".
 

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Yes m8, I usually use the 90w oil, use a small brush to put it on or rotate wheel and use a small bottle to squirt on chain then brush out, crazy enough I just found some 120w oil from an independent on eBay so just ordered a bottle. Tried chain lube, it just turns into a messy paste that's a ballache to clean off, heavy gear oil is great.
 

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Mark, wasn't the chain on your 300R shot at 3500 miles? Gear oil is not the way to go.

I've been using Bel-Ray Super Clean chain lube for years, and have had long service life from the chain & sprockets on all my bikes. FWIW, I believe kiwi rider uses it as well.
 

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MotoMike, If oil is not the way to go then why does a scott oiler extend chain life considerably on the bikes tha have them?, my chain is halfway through the green adjustment, this is a heavier 520 chain, my CG was a 428, I got 11k on a non o ring chain and 15k on a o ring using gear oil as a lube, this is recommended in the Honda manual for that bike, there are a few people on this forum stating the multiple chain adjustments needed early on on these bikes.
I thought Honda got there OEM chains from D.I.D, maybe they have changed supplier, and if I ragged the nuts of the bike then it may account for the quick wear but the chains are sealed with the grease inside, any lube on the outside is flung off or washed off in the rain for the most part and is only there to prevent corrosion, also most if not all is pushed out from the the teeth and rollers. I always have a wet sheen on my chain and o rings, I can only assume the chain is faulty or contains cheese in its manufacture, possibly sourced from France.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
MotoMike, If oil is not the way to go then why does a scott oiler extend chain life considerably on the bikes tha have them?, my chain is halfway through the green adjustment, this is a heavier 520 chain, my CG was a 428, I got 11k on a non o ring chain and 15k on a o ring using gear oil as a lube, this is recommended in the Honda manual for that bike, there are a few people on this forum stating the multiple chain adjustments needed early on on these bikes.
I thought Honda got there OEM chains from D.I.D, maybe they have changed supplier, and if I ragged the nuts of the bike then it may account for the quick wear but the chains are sealed with the grease inside, any lube on the outside is flung off or washed off in the rain for the most part and is only there to prevent corrosion, also most if not all is pushed out from the the teeth and rollers. I always have a wet sheen on my chain and o rings, I can only assume the chain is faulty or contains cheese in its manufacture, possibly sourced from France.
Back way back when, on my trumpet and norton we all used to take the chain off; clean in petrol, dry then heat some grease up and put the chain in. Take out & let dry. Seems to be two preferences on which way is best to use. Regarding gumming up the front sprocket, never had that problem with wax spray. However will keep an eye on it and if need be, use gunk engine cleaner or petrol and brush to clean it all off.
 

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Drive Chain Cleaning & Lubrication

While cleaning my chain this morning I notice there is a lot of movement,side to side,up and down on the front sprocket.
Soryy, nothing to do with your question, but do you remove a sprocket cover each time you clean and lube your chain? If so, why do you do that? Is it just to make sure the sprocket is clean?
 

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I normally take the cover off the day after lubing as chain lube flicks off and collects inside the cover and drips down the side stand.
Not too much lube,its the lube inside the rollers that only comes out at speed.
 

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Soryy, nothing to do with your question, but do you remove a sprocket cover each time you clean and lube your chain? If so, why do you do that? Is it just to make sure the sprocket is clean?
Every 400-500ish miles when I degrease/lube my chain I take off the front sprocket cover. I spray the degreaser in there and clean it out really good with towels to get all the grime/sand/dirt in there. Now I have an aftermarket sprocket cover with a plexiglass window on it so I can see what's going on in there:D
 

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Soryy, nothing to do with your question, but do you remove a sprocket cover each time you clean and lube your chain? If so, why do you do that? Is it just to make sure the sprocket is clean?
Personally, I lift the bike's rear wheel between a jack and the sidestand peg, just enough for the wheel to come off the ground.
Then either I put it in neutral and manually rotate the wheel, or (on some bikes that are not the CBR300R), I can put it in first gear, and have it idle rotate the rear wheel.
With the wheel rotating, I lubricate the chain with chain wax. The chain wax I use has 2 substances in there.
The first is a very thin, clear liquid that evaporates very easily.
It helps clean the chain, and at the same time, helps the wax to enter in the chain.
the second product is the wax. White lithium wax, like candewax, dry in normal condition, seeps in the cracks of the chain.

Sometimes I use chain cleaner with a small red straw on the tip of the can, and aim that in the front sprocket compartment for a bit.
Personally, I don't open it. I deep clean it only when I change the front sprocket, or change the chain.
 

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Non O-ring vs O-ring Chain

I was keen to try out a non O-ring chain on the CBR as they are known for producing less resistance than an O-ring chain which makes them ideal for low horsepower motorcycles. I purchased a standard RK brand 520 chain, nothing special.

When I first fitted the chain I noticed straight away spinning the rear wheel on the paddock stand that it kept spinning way longer than it did with the O-ring chain. This was pleasing.

I expected quite a bit more adjustment during the initial wear in/stretch period but I only adjusted it once in the first 1500 miles. More happiness.

Then... half way through my tour I decided to give it a good clean at my friends house as I had been lubing it every 400 miles or so and it was starting to build up a bit. So I got the degreaser spray out and then the kerosene and toothbrush and gave it a good old clean up then wiped it down with a rag. I took it for a quick ride to fling out the last of the cleaner and warm the chain up a bit then sprayed it with my usual Belray super clean chain lube. Good to go.

Well, I didnt even quite get to my next days destination which was only 300 miles away before I had to pull over and adjust the chain on the side of the road as it was flapping around that much I could hear it! And the chain was showing a rusty red color on the outside too. So I sprayed the $hit out of it again with lube after adjusting it and carried on. The next three days on the way home I pretty much had to adjust the chain twice a day or roughly every 150 -200 miles. By the time I got home I reckon I had probably moved the axle in the slot 3/8th of an inch with all the adjustments. So the chain has to go or it will start hooking the teeth on my fairly new sprockets because its so worn.

I'm wondering if the non O-ring chains come with a thick grease on the internal pins and when i cleaned the chain I washed all this out. The spray lube I applied was perhaps only lubing the side plates and the pins were running dry hence the rapid wear. It would interesting to fit another non O-ring chain and maintain it differently.

Not sure what my next move is but it has to be replaced regardless. It's done nearly 3K miles. Maybe I didn't buy a good enough quality chain, dunno.

Anyone else got any experience with non O-ring chains on their bikes?
 

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That's not good @kiwi rider. My next project was going to be new sprockets and a chain. I was definitely going to go with the X-ring style but now you're scaring me :eek:
Sounds like you're confusing the issue Mikal... Al's post is referring to the relatively short service life of non O-ring chains. Whereas an X-ring chain is really just a design variation of a traditional O-ring chain, and should have a similar service life.



@kiwi rider... the thing about a non O-ring chain is that while it does offer significantly less rolling resistance, that comes at the price of a much shorter service life and more frequent chain maintenance as compared to O or X ring chains. Which isn't an issue for a race bike where the objective is finding every tenth of a second possible on a lap. However that's not ideal for an everyday use street/road bike where longevity and minimal maintenance is desired.
 

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I've used it in the past. It's okay, however I much prefer Bel-Ray Super Clean lube, which dries quickly after application and doesn't attract dirt and grit.

Whereas the Pro-Honda lube remains somewhat wet and sticky after application, and so it tends to attract more grit. If you're going to use the Pro-Honda chain lube, I'd say that you should plan on more frequent cleaning and re-lubing. Also, by wiping off excess lube with a rag after applying, you'll find that will help with decreasing the amount of grit that sticks to the chain.
 

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Sounds like you're confusing the issue Mikal... Al's post is referring to the relatively short service life of non O-ring chains. Whereas an X-ring chain is really just a design variation of a traditional O-ring chain, and should have a similar service life.



@kiwi rider... the thing about a non O-ring chain is that while it does offer significantly less rolling resistance, that comes at the price of a much shorter service life and more frequent chain maintenance as compared to O or X ring chains. Which isn't an issue for a race bike where the objective is finding every tenth of a second possible on a lap. However that's not ideal for an everyday use street/road bike where longevity and minimal maintenance is desired.
I am confused then. I was under the impression that an X-ring was a non-O-ring chain just because of the exemption of the "O" lol.
So there are 3 types in general? X-ring, O-ring, and non-O-Ring'?
I get so confused looking at chains there are so many brands and so many model #'s and they don't really explain the difference between each model. Then there's a chain that's cheap, $30 that says it is the same as another brand that costs $140
 
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