Honda CBR 300 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 43 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,389 Posts
Hyperpro Progressive Front Fork Spring KIT Honda CBR300R 2014 2015 | eBay

These are the only ones I could find and when I emailed them asking what the spring rate was they never replyed I find
It hard to believe they are suitable from 50kg to 150kg usally you will spring the bike for your weight with riding gear.. Not give or take 50kg
All I can say is that if there is any hesitancy from your behalf, I would hold off... But that's just me being overly cautious as usual.

I suppose it can be worth a try if one does decide...
 
  • Like
Reactions: mikal

·
Registered
Joined
·
295 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anyone looked at stiffer fork springs?
Do a search on cbr250.net , the 250's have the same forks and those bikes have been around longer so guys have been modifying them ... as we do!
I had a bit of a look last night I did read one thread on poeple using the kawi ninja 250 stock springs in the cbr250s as there are longer stock and I'm guessing the spring rate is a little heaver.. Have you heard of this kiwi rider?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,423 Posts
I had a bit of a look last night I did read one thread on poeple using the kawi ninja 250 stock springs in the cbr250s as there are longer stock and I'm guessing the spring rate is a little heaver.. Have you heard of this kiwi rider?
Nah I havent heard of this conversion but the Race Tech springs are popular and come in a choice of three stiffness levels.
Race Tech Fork Springs - Motorcycle Superstore
I dont have as much beef with the softness of the springs as some riders as I only weigh 60kg (130lbs) but I do find they flex a bit when pushed hard through uneven corners, esp at speed. The soft springs def don't help either! I see the new Yamaha R3 has 41mm diameter forks as opposed to the 37's that the Ninja and CBR have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks I'll check them out...
If Yamaha had a r3 naked version I would trade in a heartbeat. Looks like a slick machine with decent power and similar weight from what I've read.. I'm very tempted to get a bigbore but I don't wanna risk engine issues on a new bike for a little more power and cc once the bikes warrenty is up I will rethink it.. Just fine the bike lacks good overtaking power at 100+ I'm fine with the topspeed but it need to hit it faster. By then the kawi 300 naked will be out and who knows maybe a r3 naked
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,423 Posts
Nah but it seems to be a popular option to install in conjunction with changing your springs.
Starts to stack up price wise tho eh. Seems to mostly track day guys doing these expensive upgrades.
My fork mods have been limited to old school stuff like slipping washers in on top of the springs(!) and changing oil weights and quantities.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Hyperpro Progressive Front Fork Spring KIT Honda CBR300R 2014 2015 | eBay

These are the only ones I could find and when I emailed them asking what the spring rate was they never replyed I find
It hard to believe they are suitable from 50kg to 150kg usally you will spring the bike for your weight with riding gear.. Not give or take 50kg


I believe this is the company I spoke to at the Orlando AIME show. They had a US sales rep with them. Try looking up EPM performance imports. At the time of the show, the springs they had were for the 250s. the sales guy talked our ear off for over a half hour, lol. the product looked good. they had small demo springs you could squish in your hands to get an idea of the different rates. hope this helps. I kept their business cards because the product seemed very nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
I have some race tech springs in a bike and also have the gold emulators in the same bike.
a few things that need to be done to fit this. (I have rebuilt more than 10 bikes, front forks so I have a little experience) the Race tech suspension has goods about it, you do have to modify the shock Dampners by drilling the dampner holes to a larger size so that fork Oil I usually use a synthetic ATF, or a fork Oil that has a consistent oil viscosity.
I did not like the Very Cheap fork spacers supplied with the Race tech springs, very thin cheap alum tube.
You can firm forks up a few ways,
you can use some thin washers, remove the fork caps, I mark where the caps last thread release and mark it with a sharpie put in a few washers then compress the spring and put the cap back on.
you can try using a little thicker viscosity oil, sometimes this will just provide a jolt instead of the desired effect, as there is a fine line as the fluid needs to move through the dampner holes at a certain rate,
you can put a threaded bolt in the fork caps with a solid washer at the top of the spring, this will compress the spring some, and provide some pre-load to the front forks this can eliminate fork sag.
or you can put a schrader valve in the fork cap, and put about 5psi up to 10 psi of air, the air will provide a preload to the forks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
My fork mods have been limited to old school stuff like slipping washers in on top of the springs(!) and changing oil weights and quantities.


So i did last week, i took a 1 inch longer steel pipe and put it instead of the originals. The difference is awesome, the front is now not pointing to the ground and react well on highway. Much more confident in that way.


Take care
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have some race tech springs in a bike and also have the gold emulators in the same bike.
a few things that need to be done to fit this. (I have rebuilt more than 10 bikes, front forks so I have a little experience) the Race tech suspension has goods about it, you do have to modify the shock Dampners by drilling the dampner holes to a larger size so that fork Oil I usually use a synthetic ATF, or a fork Oil that has a consistent oil viscosity.
I did not like the Very Cheap fork spacers supplied with the Race tech springs, very thin cheap alum tube.
You can firm forks up a few ways,
you can use some thin washers, remove the fork caps, I mark where the caps last thread release and mark it with a sharpie put in a few washers then compress the spring and put the cap back on.
you can try using a little thicker viscosity oil, sometimes this will just provide a jolt instead of the desired effect, as there is a fine line as the fluid needs to move through the dampner holes at a certain rate,
you can put a threaded bolt in the fork caps with a solid washer at the top of the spring, this will compress the spring some, and provide some pre-load to the front forks this can eliminate fork sag.
or you can put a schrader valve in the fork cap, and put about 5psi up to 10 psi of air, the air will provide a preload to the forks
just a quick question. would you have to remove the forks to install thin washers underneath the fork caps. i just don't like the way the nose sits pointing up almost on the 300r's. when i changed the springs on my 1k, i shorten the plastic spacer and went up in weight on the spring. i guess I'm asking by doing what you suggested in the post will this give me the desired effect of pointing the nose down a little. thank you in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
487 Posts
No but you do need to loosen the top crown clamp to be able to turn the top caps.

Also no need to use heavy steel spacers/pipes/tube, pvc pipe works just fine...3/4" sch40 is perfect. With the pipe cutter and a long section of pipe start out with 5mm longer then the stock steel spacer and go up 5mm till you get the right sag. It is easy to cut up to several different lenghts to experiment and get the proper sag if you are within the weight of the springs if not then get springs other wise it will never be right. Thing to remember is to have washers at both ends of the spacer just like the stock setup.

I guess the stock fork springs are meant for rider weight up to about 160lbs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,423 Posts
just a quick question. would you have to remove the forks to install thin washers underneath the fork caps. i just don't like the way the nose sits pointing up almost on the 300r's. when i changed the springs on my 1k, i shorten the plastic spacer and went up in weight on the spring. i guess I'm asking by doing what you suggested in the post will this give me the desired effect of pointing the nose down a little. thank you in advance
If you want to lower your nose you could slide your triple tree down the forks some by loosening off the clamp bolts. You wouldn't want to go more than 20mm (3/4") tho or you may run into front guard clearance issues under full suspension compression.
 
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Top