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Below is the response from Revzilla customer representative.

"This is a manufacturing defect that has been seen once before. Unfortunately, do not have any replacements to send you so I have set you up with $43.35 in store credit and a $20 credit as an apology which you can use towards a replacement when they come back in stock or on a different product."
 

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Looks like it needs a bit skimmed off the inside face in the lathe so that allen screw locates nicely on the head of the axle bolt. Pity we dont live in the same town so I could sort it out for you!

R&G need to get that sorted pronto rather than just keep on knowingly selling a defective product.
Thanks for the heads up, might save another member having the same issue.
Further information of the R&G Racing front axle slider (Left side).

As per IMG_5500, more than half of the screw is sitting outside the fattest part of the hex axle head. There is only 3.5mm from meat left from the edge of the screw housing to the bottom of the protector. The screw is about 5mm in outside diameter, but only the center will be screw into the hex head to secure the protector. Even if I could skim off enough material to fit the protector, I am afraid that there will not be only a thin material to keep the protector in-place and that will not be able sustain the impact. Seriously, I do not think the protector will work according to the current design on the left side...

Does anyone here have experience with front axle sliders from other brand? Also looking for rear axle sliders too, any suggestion?
 

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Below is the response from Revzilla customer representative.

"This is a manufacturing defect that has been seen once before. Unfortunately, do not have any replacements to send you so I have set you up with $43.35 in store credit and a $20 credit as an apology which you can use towards a replacement when they come back in stock or on a different product."
Well that's a good result from Revzilla if nothing else. I've never fitted sliders to a bike before. My race bike has 50mm diameter ones that seem to have saved the main fairing a few times as the previous owner was a win or crash type of guy.
 

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Update on Shogun Frame Sliders installation. The procedure is simple as long as one knows how to remove the fairings. I have spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to remove the fairings. Lots of people online saying that the clips are very fragile, so very cautious when removing them.
Worked on the right side first, everything goes smoothly. Except I made a stupid mistake putting in the wrong spacers, so have to loosen everything and re-tighten again. Just wanted to ensure that the torque requirement of frame flange bolt (14mm) is 33lb-ft? Then move to the left side, this time very easy to take off the fairings. However, the 14mm frame flange bolt was so stubborn, the bolt is not moving at all even two of the sockets was broken during the process. Going to borrow an impact driver and get a better quality socket to try loosing it again tonight. Just one thing, in order to remove and install the middle screw for bracket on both sides, need to loosen the bottom fairings to install the new bolts.
To complete the installation, need to screw the pucks by 8mm hex bolt to the bracket come with the kit. Unfortunately, the biggest hex key I have is 6mm, so cannot install the puck until grabbing a set of the T-Hex set later today. I find myself enjoy the basic mechanic works after fixing the mis-firing and installing the accessories and would not mind to do some basic maintenance by myself down the road. This will definitely save myself some bucks, especially I will have two bikes soon.
Will provide another update on the installation of the left slider.
 

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Wow that bolt is tight huh. Either that or those sockets are real cheap quality. Good to see you are using six point sockets for a sucure fit. Are you using 3/8th or 1/2 inch drive ratchet? Possibly they put loctite on the thread at the factory. A good quality 1/2 inch drive socket and ratchet with maybe a sneaky bit of pipe on the handle for extra leverage should shift it.
 

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Wow that bolt is tight huh. Either that or those sockets are real cheap quality. Good to see you are using six point sockets for a sucure fit. Are you using 3/8th or 1/2 inch drive ratchet? Possibly they put loctite on the thread at the factory. A good quality 1/2 inch drive socket and ratchet with maybe a sneaky bit of pipe on the handle for extra leverage should shift it.
3/8th drive was used with those socket. The sockets are from MasterCraft, the brand from the main hardware/tool stores here up North. Good that they come with lifetime warranty, hope they will replace them. If the put loctite at the factory, do we need to reapply the loctite when installing the frame slider bracket? What kind shall be used?
 

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3/8th drive was used with those socket. The sockets are from MasterCraft, the brand from the main hardware/tool stores here up North. Good that they come with lifetime warranty, hope they will replace them. If the put loctite at the factory, do we need to reapply the loctite when installing the frame slider bracket? What kind shall be used?
No I wouldnt, just do it up tight. In the unlikely event it did start to come loose you would see/hear/feel it before it fell off completely.

3/8th drive might be a bit light for the job. If you cant borrow a 1/2'' ratchet then you could try a piece of pipe over the end of your 3/8th drive ratchet handle as long as you are prepared to wreck it perhaps. Gotta get the bolt undone some how. Rattle guns are good for undoing tight nuts and bolts but not many people have access to one.
 

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No I wouldnt, just do it up tight. In the unlikely event it did start to come loose you would see/hear/feel it before it fell off completely.

3/8th drive might be a bit light for the job. If you cant borrow a 1/2'' ratchet then you could try a piece of pipe over the end of your 3/8th drive ratchet handle as long as you are prepared to wreck it perhaps. Gotta get the bolt undone some how. Rattle guns are good for undoing tight nuts and bolts but not many people have access to one.
Got myself an impact socket with the help of an impact wrench borrowed from my neighbour. Finally able to loosen that stubborn nut to complete the installation of the Shogun Frame Sliders.

However, I am not too sure if I am just an unlucky person or what. Minor pressure has to be applied while screwing in the left puck. The lib of the cutout is touching the bodywork. It's not a big deal (can sand it down a bit to clear the fairing easily I guess...) but this was never expected for a specific parts cost over $150 which specifically designed for the CBR300R. The right side has plenty of room between the puck and the fairing though, was expecting similar clearance on both sides. Does anyone else experience the same thing or just me expecting too much...? Already reached out the RevZilla and Shogun, hopefully will hear back soon.
 

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Received and installed the replacement puck from Shogun with the notch cutout enlarged by about 1/4". Now the puck fits perfectly. Again, thanks to the excellent after sales service from Shogun to help resolve the clearance issue.

The Shogun frame sliders are installed and looks perfect, hope will never have to test them out. Still awaiting response from R&G Racing regarding their front axle slider fitment problem.
 

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R&G Frame Sliders

Pretty happy with the R&G stuff, I've low sided twice in race pace and bike slid 50-60 ft each time. Frame and axle sliders, as well as handlebar sliders took most of the damage. The frame slider bolt is designed to bend so your frame doesn't, so it's pretty much one time use.
 

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Pretty happy with the R&G stuff, I've low sided twice in race pace and bike slid 50-60 ft each time. Frame and axle sliders, as well as handlebar sliders took most of the damage. The frame slider bolt is designed to bend so your frame doesn't, so it's pretty much one time use.
That's good to hear, and lucky it was the low side too...
 
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