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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Everyone, I posted this video to Youtube. My brother and I did the oil and filter change this time around. The video shows how to loosen the fairings to access the bolt behind the middle fairing and then the oil change. Just a heads up. I didn't use professional tools and living in Canada the oil I used was appropriate. Some may not approve of my methods (re-using the seal and gasket) but I think there is enough information to help most people get through the job. I hop this helps. Disclaimer - I have a Youtube Channel for product reviews - I'm posting the video here because I think the folks here will get the most use from it. I've posted some of the technical specs below.

https://youtu.be/6xbbKP8tAJc

This is a long video and is meant as a guide to help you through the oil change process. There may be other solutions or methods but this is what we went with.

Note on audio - the audio is a voiceover because the original audio was muffled and unusable.

Tools Needed (in addition to the manual)

Socket set (12mm and 8 mm sockets), Allen Keys, Rags, Oil Pan, Flashlight, Manual, Engine Oil, Filter and Gasket, Rubber Gloves, Phillips and Flat Screwdriver, funnel, torque wrench, Oil bolt seal, Bike Stand and some newspapers to place under the bike while draining.

Required Oil (when changing the oil & filter) – 1.5 liters (1.6 U.S. qt)
When changing the oil only – 1.4 liters (1.5 U.S. qt)

Oil – 10W 30 (I used 10W 40 which will work too without issue)

Oil Filter – Honda Part # 15410-KY-901 (I used K&N Part number KN-112)
Oil Filter Gasket – Honda Part #15412-KY-901
Oil Bolt (Crush) Washer (12mm) – 94109-12000

Technical Info:
Torque settings for the Oil Filter – 9lb-ft (12-m, 1.2 kgf-m)
Oil Drain Bolt – 18 lbf-ft (24 N-m, 2.4 kgf-m)

Notes and Corrections: In this video we hand tightened the bolts and checked them again with a torque wrench off camera – We recommend you invest in a torque wrench. Remember tighter isn’t better but the instructions in the video will get you by.
The filter spring - the filter spring was put back in off camera.
 

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Warning!!

I watched your video a couple times. 4 times at the point you put the Oil Filter back on. Unless there is a whole section cut out of your video? You did not put the Oil Filter Cap Spring back in? The SPRING is clearly still on top of the towel when you place the filter in the cap and then onto the engine. I cannot stress how important that spring is!!
Failure to put that spring in will cause damage to your engine. Once the oil pressure builds up it will pop off the oil filter instantly not only allowing particles to bypass the filter totally but may also impede proper oil flow. Especially as you stated..the first couple oil changes are extremely important as the Oil Filter catches the metal from the engines break in.
I would suggest you remove this video and in my opinion change your oil and put that spring back in immediately
My apologies if you added the spring off camera or later but it is a very important step that must be shown.

As this bike is considered an entry level bike many members here are first-time riders. They rely on proper procedures, techniques, and even suggestions they get from members here. Showing things like re-using the Oil Filter gasket can let them assume that this is the proper procedure. For a $6 gasket, I highly recommend replacing it, as well as the Oil drain plug crush washer($1).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Mikal. You are correct. The spring is in. I skipped past that part and didn't realize I didn't show it in the video. I'll add a caption to the video. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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Hi Mikal. You are correct. The spring is in. I skipped past that part and didn't realize I didn't show it in the video. I'll add a caption to the video. Thanks for the heads up.
Ok if you say so. The video is nonstop from the time you place the filter in the cover to when you screw it back on the engine. The video doesn't shut off and there is absolutely no spring in there during that time.
Did you shut off the camera and unscrew the filter housing again to put the spring in?

There is an oil filter change video on this forum already that shows every step correctly.
You can see here in his video the pressure the spring pushes back on the housing cover when he goes to bolt it back on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKVDUnYvBKs

@DaBinChe has tons of 'how to' videos, he also has a YouTube channel
 

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You can keep the fairing disassembly part, if you decide to remove the oil change video. :) Nice and simple on how to remove it!
 

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A lil trick that helped me with that "hidden allen bolt" on the lower fairing, I replaced it with a regular 6 sided Hex bolt. Using a 1/4 inch spanner with a low profile socket gets in there like butter. Some people even leave it out
That's a good idea with the hex head bolt. Then you have the option of using a 1/4" drive universal joint adaptor and a long extension to come in on an angle and clear the overlapping edge of the top cowling.

I use the ball end of a long allen key but I have to be careful not to over tighten it otherwise I cant get it undone easily the next time.
 

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Hi Everyone, I posted this video to Youtube. My brother and I did the oil and filter change this time around. The video shows how to loosen the fairings to access the bolt behind the middle fairing and then the oil change. Just a heads up. I didn't use professional tools and living in Canada the oil I used was appropriate. Some may not approve of my methods (re-using the seal and gasket) but I think there is enough information to help most people get through the job. I hop this helps. Disclaimer - I have a Youtube Channel for product reviews - I'm posting the video here because I think the folks here will get the most use from it. I've posted some of the technical specs below.


This is a long video and is meant as a guide to help you through the oil change process. There may be other solutions or methods but this is what we went with.

Note on audio - the audio is a voiceover because the original audio was muffled and unusable.

Tools Needed (in addition to the manual)

Socket set (12mm and 8 mm sockets), Allen Keys, Rags, Oil Pan, Flashlight, Manual, Engine Oil, Filter and Gasket, Rubber Gloves, Phillips and Flat Screwdriver, funnel, torque wrench, Oil bolt seal, Bike Stand and some newspapers to place under the bike while draining.

Required Oil (when changing the oil & filter) – 1.5 liters (1.6 U.S. qt)
When changing the oil only – 1.4 liters (1.5 U.S. qt)

Oil – 10W 30 (I used 10W 40 which will work too without issue)

Oil Filter – Honda Part # 15410-KY-901 (I used K&N Part number KN-112)
Oil Filter Gasket – Honda Part #15412-KY-901
Oil Bolt (Crush) Washer (12mm) – 94109-12000

Technical Info:
Torque settings for the Oil Filter – 9lb-ft (12-m, 1.2 kgf-m)
Oil Drain Bolt – 18 lbf-ft (24 N-m, 2.4 kgf-m)

Notes and Corrections: In this video we hand tightened the bolts and checked them again with a torque wrench off camera – We recommend you invest in a torque wrench. Remember tighter isn’t better but the instructions in the video will get you by.
The filter spring - the filter spring was put back in off camera.
Thank you for your post. I found the text portion very helpful, the way you list the ft lbs of the torque wrench and also the 1.6 quarts needed and all the part numbers. Its a good "cliff notes" for people who have already done the oil change before (like me) and just needed a brief refresher. But anyone doing this procedure needs to slow down and pay very special attention to the part about the spring and about installing the oil filter the correct way......With the rubber butt-hole pointing at the bike.

With the rubber butt-hole POINTING at the bike.
With the rubber butt-hole POINTING at the bike.
With the rubber butt-hole POINTING at the bike.

The way I do it is I grab the cover with the spring inside it and press the oil filter into the spring and cover. Grab all 3 of those items first and then line it to the bolt-holes and put first the top right bolt. Then the bottom left bolt. Then the top left bolt. Then the bottom right bolt. All of those finger tightened. And then finish up with the torque wrench. If you are careful to not molest the $6 rubber gasket you can reuse it at least 3 times (from my experience) and certainly can reuse the crush washer on the oil bolt also at least 3 times.

But if you are adverse to risk then just change the gasket and the washer every oil change.
 
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