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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Tools needed: 8 mm & 10 mm Open End Wrenches

Locate the rubber protective boot on the forward Throttle Cable...
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Slide the rubber boot off of the Throttle Cable Adjustment Barrel/Jam Nut...
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Use the 8 mm wrench to hold the Adjustment Barrel, and the 10 mm wrench to loosen the Jam Nut...
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Rotate the Adjustment Barrel away from the throttle housing to take up excessive free play in the cable.

In this photo the throttle grip is shown fully closed...
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This photo shows the amount of throttle free play (2 to 4 mm) at the grip, after making the adjustment. You'll want to check this free play with the handle bars in both right & left full lock, as well as in the straight ahead position.
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Retighten the Jam Nut against the Adjustment Barrel, and slide the rubber boot back over the Adjustment Barrel and Jam Nut.




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Thanks! Did this today, worked perfect!

For anyone else doing it, the adjustment barrel moving away from the throttle tightens it up (counter-clockwise didn't help my directionaly challenged brain since I didn't know what direction that assumed I was looking at it from)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! Did this today, worked perfect!

For anyone else doing it, the adjustment barrel moving away from the throttle tightens it up (counter-clockwise didn't help my directionaly challenged brain since I didn't know what direction that assumed I was looking at it from)
I changed the description of this in the instructions of my post... thanks Kevin.
 

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Great tutorial! I have about 250miles and never realized I had so much slack. If I twisted the throttle and released it, it would snap back but then I could still turn it back even more! I assume you drew the arrows on the grips? After adjusting I'm down to 5mm slack. What a huge difference it makes. The clutch free play is perfect 4-5mm free play. Launches in 1st are so much smoother now. Thanks MotoMike!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great tutorial! I have about 250miles and never realized I had so much slack. If I twisted the throttle and released it, it would snap back but then I could still turn it back even more! I assume you drew the arrows on the grips? After adjusting I'm down to 5mm slack. What a huge difference it makes. The clutch free play is perfect 4-5mm free play. Launches in 1st are so much smoother now. Thanks MotoMike!
I cut those arrows from a piece of white electrical tape, so as to be able to show the amount of slack for the photos.
 

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Great guide I used this to adjust mine, it was at 10mm of play making starts and downshifts jerky, now back to smooth.
 

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I adjusted mine last night. I felt like I rotated the adjustment barrel like 10 turns to get it to 4mm, and only after 1700 miles
 

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I had a fair amount to wind out myself, possible your cable has stretched a tad more, might need replacing.
I did mine at around 500 miles I think, been OK since.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can't find any info showing the adjustment if the throttle cable on the throttle body itself. Is this an easy job? I installed a new throttle tube and after adjusting my slack at the handlebars I'm pretty much at the end of the threads. Any more tightening I'm afraid the nut will fall off the threads. Lol
Is your new throttle tube an aftermarket 1/4 turn unit?
 

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I don't know if the CB also has an adjustment on the bottom of the cable, just in case someone needs to adjust too much on the top?

I know on my GS500 I had both bottom and top adjustments.
 

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I can't find any info showing the adjustment if the throttle cable on the throttle body itself. Is this an easy job? I installed a new throttle tube and after adjusting my slack at the handlebars I'm pretty much at the end of the threads. Any more tightening I'm afraid the nut will fall off the threads. Lol
I haven't changed my throttle tube, but it may have been changed by a previous owner. I had the same problem - no adjustment left at the handlebar end. There is, however, also an adjuster at the throttle body end, beneath the tank. I was able to gain a lot of adjustment at that end and now have the adjuster at the handlebar in the middle of its range - easy for future adjustments.

To do this:

1. Remove both seats

2. Remove each side panel - 4 bolts on each and 4 plugs in grommets to gently ease out once your bolts are undone (just undo the bolts, pull the plastics away from their seatings at each bolt, then ease the panel directly outwards from the bike, front to back). You can now see the adjusters by looking under the tank from the right side, but there is no room to get a spanner in...

3. Loosen and lift the rear of the tank to make space: undo the two bolts at the rear of the tank; undo the two bolts at the front of the tank that hold the plastic shroud on, then pull the shroud up and forwards to get it off it's two grommets in sockets; undo the one bolt at the front of the tank that was hidden under the shroud

4. Lift the tank about 10cms at the rear, ensuring the big black rubbers lift up with the tank (they are just sat on spigots); chock the rear of the tank up at about 10cms high (I just used some wood off cuts); now just have someone hold the tank in place whilst you make the necessary adjustments.

Job done! :)
 

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Worth mentioning that at the end of the procedure, start your bike and turn the bars lock to lock. There should be no increase of revs at full lock. If there is, you've gone too tight.
 
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