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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,
So I'm in the process of swapping out my sprockets and chain for my new DID kit! I've taken off the front sprocket cover, examined the front sprocket and have noticed that there is a bit of side to side play. Is this normal and if not, what kind of work am I looking at to fix the issue? My chain is literally slapping the guide whenever I ride so the sprockets and chain are definitely getting swapped but I need to know if my engine is gonna explode cus of a little play.

Next issue, I've recently adjusted my clutch because it was waaaay to loose; I couldn't get into neutral and the bike was creeping. Clutch adjustment went well and for about a week to 2 weeks it's been ok, but I've just noticed yesterday that it's not letting me into neutral when the bike isn't moving but when the bike is moving I can usually get into neutral no problem. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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These bikes use a locking plate to secure the sprocket rather than a large diameter nut that threads on to the end of the splined shaft, so you will always get that side to side movement. Nothing to be bothered about.

Not sure about your clutch. All I can suggest is you keep it adjusted correctly as per the manual using the adjuster on the lever perch and when you run out of adjustment there adjust the other end of the cable at the motor end. If it's still no good then your cable is frayed and/or stretched and you need a new one or your clutch plates are worn and need replacing. How many k's on the clock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
These bikes use a locking plate to secure the sprocket rather than a large diameter nut that threads on to the end of the splined shaft, so you will always get that side to side movement. Nothing to be bothered about.

Not sure about your clutch. All I can suggest is you keep it adjusted correctly as per the manual using the adjuster on the lever perch and when you run out of adjustment there adjust the other end of the cable at the motor end. If it's still no good then your cable is frayed and/or stretched and you need a new one or your clutch plates are worn and need replacing. How many k's on the clock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When I bought the bike a month ago the clutch adjustment was completely out of wack so I started at the motor end and worked my way up to the perch so the adjustment is still ok. What I do notice is that when I'm at a standstill or coming to it, I'll notice really light jerks as if something is skipping? There are 26ks on the clock. Also, thank you very much for that this bit about the locking plate. I was getting frantic cus this bike is my daily commuter 😅
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When I bought the bike a month ago the clutch adjustment was completely out of wack so I started at the motor end and worked my way up to the perch so the adjustment is still ok. What I do notice is that when I'm at a standstill or coming to it, I'll notice really light jerks as if something is skipping? There are 26ks on the clock. Also, thank you very much for that this bit about the locking plate. I was getting frantic cus this bike is my daily commuter 😅
I'll take another measurement at the perch to make sure it's still in spec but the Freeplay in the handle is about the same as it was as after my adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright, so continuing on with my weekend of diy work, I've removed my chain, rear wheel, replaced my front sprocket and spark plug. I'm now onto my rear sprocket and looking at my Haynes manual it says to "counter hold the sprocket bolts and unscrew the nuts". Now I fully understand what this means but how would you guys go about this task? Box end on nut and impact on the hex head bolt? Box end on nut and breaker bar with hex head holding the bolt? Crows foot on breaker bar on nut??.....

Also, returning to my clutch issue. I noticed yesterday that the bike had started creeping again after my initial adjustment 3 weeks ago so I went ahead and did the thing with the barrel adjuster on the perch. While the bike is on the rear stand I turn it on and leave it in neutral to see if it creeps and its still doing it? Could this be a symptom of worn clutch plates or a selector?
 

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Creeping while on the stand is normal, there is only a very small gap between the plates when the clutch is disengaged so this can happen until some proper load comes on.

Those OEM sprocket bolts can be crazy tight from the factory but worst of all they use loctite. Hold the sprocket in a vice so it cant go anywhere and use a rattle gun to undo the nut if you can access it but I think from memory (long time since I sild my bike) the nut is on the inside and you cant get a socket in there? In that case hold nut with spanner and rattle the bolts head but use a 6 point socket not a 12 to minimize chance of rounding off the head.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Creeping while on stands noted.

Rear sprocket: the bolt itself has a round head and requires a 6mm hex driver to hold the bolt and the spanner is a 17mm. Issue is I don't have a vise readily available. I have all the basic tools a mechanic would have ie. Rattle/impact gun, impact sockets, spanners, adjustable wrenches etc. Also, my sprocket flange sits pretty loosely on the wheel, is that normal? I have a pin wrench to use for sprockets and such, so I'm gonna look around on YouTube to see if anyone has done this job without a vise.
 

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Yes the sprocket is on removable hub called the sprocket carrier but if don’t have a vice to hold it then best left on the wheel to give you more hold. May even need to put wheel back in the bike if need be.
Yes I remember those dome head bolts now. Bad design. You may need a extension slid over the end of your Allen key. Could be a two person job. Hopefully not loctited. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is it safe to change these dome head hex drive bolts to any other type of bolt? Just thinking about the reverse job and having to retorque these after the new sprocket is on. I'm not looking forward to torquing these internal hex drives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is it safe to change these dome head hex drive bolts to any other type of bolt? Just thinking about the reverse job and having to retorque these after the new sprocket is on. I'm not looking forward to torquing these internal hex drives.
I'm definitely gonna end up stripping one of these heads is why I'm asking.
 

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Yes you can replace with hex head bolts. I did this myself. I ended up having to grind two of the dome heads off and punching the bolt through because I striped the hex out. I got some tasty aluminium bolts that were anodised. Bling essentially 😆
 

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I replaced the OEM dome heads with these race drilled aluminum numbers from Pro-Bolt. Light and sexy lookin:
Household hardware Cylinder Engineering Auto part Plumbing fitting


The nuts have a steel insert for extra strength. Depends how much you want to spend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I ended up stripping a couple of the hex heads unfortunately so I've ordered replacement bolts to get the new sprocket on. In other news, since I'm a noob mechanic I knew nothing about marking the flange before I removed it from the wheel so that it would lineup in order to keep the wheel balanced. How do I go about getting my wheel balanced? Would I be better off taking it to a shop to get it done? I'm assuming the required tools are not something I can get my hands on.

Next project, my little brother pressed on the rear brake pedal while the wheel was off the bike and I'm now seeing that the piston is pushed all the way against the pads. Now, I planned on doing my rear pads anyway but does this rear piston thing affect the job?
 

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When you say 'flange' I'm assuming your talking about the sprocket carrier? If so dont worry about it, it goes on in any position and should be symmetrical. You only need to balance a wheel when you replace your rear tyre. It's easy to over think a lot of this stuff. Some riders I know dont ever bother balancing their rear wheels, just the front as this is the one you feel the vibration from through the handle bars.

If you carefully wedge a large flat bladed pry bar in between the rear brake pads and keep pressure on them the pistons will slowly retract. If your having trouble crack the bleed screw on the caliper but have a hose/tube on the nipple going to a container to catch the brake fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You're a lifesaver. Whenever I make some dumb mistake or someone I trust who's done work on his/her bike mentions something I opt to assume the worst. I also just spent about 30 minutes looking up how to balance a wheel and it's not even that tedious so if I feel anything is off I'm pretty sure I can manage to add a weight here or there. With regards to the piston, I'll definitely give that pry bar a try tomorrow when there's daylight. I saw someone on YouTube use the old pads for extra leverage against the piston so I'll probably do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
And also yes, I called it a flange cus that's what it's called in my Haynes manual but I have heard it be called a carrier as well.
 

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Get yourself one of these and some lead weights, watch a you tube clip and you'll be sorted.

No sweat with the help, everyone who rides started off at ground zero at some stage. I've got a few grey hairs going on but there's still a heap of stuff I dont know or understand fully. Electrics and electronics is my weak point as I'm an engineering machinist by trade so I understand bits of metal better lol.

You've got a Haynes manual so that will hold you in good stead. Flange eh... see I told you I don't know it all :giggle:
 
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