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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone got brave and attacked the right hand belly pan yet to improve access to the oil filter housing cover??

I've just done my fourth oil & filter change and I'm over having to remove the belly pan and prior to that loosen off half the mid fairing to access that annoying last top screw that holds the belly pan on.

If you have done this mod some pics would be great.
 

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Yup, that's why dealerships charge what they do for labor on oil changes for sport bikes with body work.
 

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Has anyone got brave and attacked the right hand belly pan yet to improve access to the oil filter housing cover??

I've just done my fourth oil & filter change and I'm over having to remove the belly pan and prior to that loosen off half the mid fairing to access that annoying last top screw that holds the belly pan on.

If you have done this mod some pics would be great.

I'm thinking about it. My idea is two 1/2" (12mm)
holes in the fairing where the hard to reach bolts
are or just cut out the area over the filter cover.
What tool will cut the fairing plastic best?
 

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Hey Kiwi. You do realise that cutting a hole or two will also save about 0.4 grams of weight, too? That's reason enough for you to get the power tools out, isn't it? :devil:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
To remove the cover fully and get the old filter out you really need the whole piece cut away. I haven't worked much with plastic or fiber glass so not sure what the best tool would be to cut it. Your going to end up with a freshly cut and unpainted edge either way that will need something done with it ideally.

Just saw Marks post suggesting the hole saw. We have one of those kits at work. I dont think it would work because the surface is irregular and you are only cutting away part of the circle if that makes any sense. So the tool wouldn't cut cleanly. Yes a dremel and a steady hand would probably be the best bet for tidying it up after cutting.
@JNO 0.4 grams?? I'll take it! :D
 

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My first oil change I couldn't figure out how to remove only the lower fairing so I just bent it slightly out of the way. Then used a small 1/4 inch ratchet to sneak in and get those oil filter bolts. On my 2nd oil change I had no problem at all. I found that allen screw that's hidden up in the fairing and I have these low profile allen keys. Just unscrewed the 2 visible allen bolts and the belly pan screw then used the low profile allen key to get that hard to reach one and the bottom fairing came right out for me. I didn't even have to loosen the big side fairing to do it. I don't really see the issue anymore?
 

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My first oil change I couldn't figure out how to remove only the lower fairing so I just bent it slightly out of the way. Then used a small 1/4 inch ratchet to sneak in and get those oil filter bolts. On my 2nd oil change I had no problem at all. I found that allen screw that's hidden up in the fairing and I have these low profile allen keys. Just unscrewed the 2 visible allen bolts and the belly pan screw then used the low profile allen key to get that hard to reach one and the bottom fairing came right out for me. I didn't even have to loosen the big side fairing to do it. I don't really see the issue anymore?
Theres a hidden one?, any chance of an image, I know the one by the foot pegs and the one near the front and the one halfway up. Its not the one on the inside of the fairing behind the front wheel is it?.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Only see 3:
There's actually five you need to release to fully remove the belly pan.

There is another stainless steel button head allen screw that comes through from the outside of the mid fairing and srews into the belly pan tucked behind it.
It is shown on atown's diagram as #15 on the mid fairing picture and screws into one of the #18 tabs on the belly pan picture.

The other one is the black plastic push-the centre-to-release type button fastener inside the nose cone at the bottom. I think it is shown as #11 on the far left of the diagram.

Getting back to the top hidden one tho, it is shown on the diagram as #13 , the one on the left. I have taken a photo of it and as Mikal says, you could sneak it out with a cut down allen key. Might be hard to get in and get started again tho?

Red Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle Car
 

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There's actually five you need to release to fully remove the belly pan.

There is another stainless steel button head allen screw that comes through from the outside of the mid fairing and srews into the belly pan tucked behind it.
It is shown on atown's diagram as #15 on the mid fairing picture and screws into one of the #18 tabs on the belly pan picture.

The other one is the black plastic push-the centre-to-release type button fastener inside the nose cone at the bottom. I think it is shown as #11 on the far left of the diagram.

Getting back to the top hidden one tho, it is shown on the diagram as #13 , the one on the left. I have taken a photo of it and as Mikal says, you could sneak it out with a cut down allen key. Might be hard to get in and get started again tho?

View attachment 12561


I think this identifies the 5.
 

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Only see 3:
Well what I meant by hidden is the one that's clearly not visible. On the diagram, I am talking about the 1 you circled that's at the very top. I also unscrew the philips screw that's right behind the front wheel under the fairing. But otherwise that's all I do and the lower panel comes right out.
 

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There's actually five you need to release to fully remove the belly pan.

There is another stainless steel button head allen screw that comes through from the outside of the mid fairing and srews into the belly pan tucked behind it.
It is shown on atown's diagram as #15 on the mid fairing picture and screws into one of the #18 tabs on the belly pan picture.

The other one is the black plastic push-the centre-to-release type button fastener inside the nose cone at the bottom. I think it is shown as #11 on the far left of the diagram.

Getting back to the top hidden one tho, it is shown on the diagram as #13 , the one on the left. I have taken a photo of it and as Mikal says, you could sneak it out with a cut down allen key. Might be hard to get in and get started again tho?


View attachment 12561
Yes you are correct. I didn't count the plastic push button thing. But in your picture that is the 'hidden' bolt I am talking about. So my allen key is longer than a normal one and the shorter end is shorter than normal. I guess you could just cut yours down. Once I get in there yes it is a very slow process of turning the bolt slightly then rearranging the allen key and so on so on till I can just turn it with my fingers really fast.
 

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There's actually five you need to release to fully remove the belly pan.

There is another stainless steel button head allen screw that comes through from the outside of the mid fairing and srews into the belly pan tucked behind it.
It is shown on atown's diagram as #15 on the mid fairing picture and screws into one of the #18 tabs on the belly pan picture.

The other one is the black plastic push-the centre-to-release type button fastener inside the nose cone at the bottom. I think it is shown as #11 on the far left of the diagram.

Getting back to the top hidden one tho, it is shown on the diagram as #13 , the one on the left. I have taken a photo of it and as Mikal says, you could sneak it out with a cut down allen key. Might be hard to get in and get started again tho?

View attachment 12561
 

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I don't take the right middle fairing off, or even loosen it for oil changes/oil filters. I just take off the right lower fairing .

35020
I use a Dottie to get all the screws, including the hard to get one behind the middle fairing. Screwdriver underneath, and off it comes nice and easy.
35018
35019
 
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