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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sooo after I did my oil change about 1500 miles ago I took the old oil filter out and let some absorbent paper just touch it at one point, a few days later after some capillary action?? all the old oil had been sucked out, the filter wasn't much different than a new one and the paper had no particles in it at all.
I'm just not keen on leaving my oil in the bike for even half the recommended service interval, my CG held 1 liter of oil and was changed every thousand miles, the CBR holds 1.5 liters with an oil filter, my current oil has been in about 1500 miles and is now quite dirty, it isn't thrashed and does 15 miles each way so is warmed up all the time, I'm thinking of changing the oil every 1500-2000 miles and the filter every second oil change. 4 liters of oil is £32-39 depending on what you use (semi synth) so an oil change is about a tenner every three months and £17 with filter (1800 miles commuting), any one see a problem with this arrangement??.
Mark
 

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Looks like a math problem... where's MeeLee when you need him?






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Think about it. Saving seven quid every few months and risking your engine. I am going the other way and changing it more often.




I used to be a reliability tech for a massive bearing company, as a consultant to massive Aussie mines. Down time was the devil.


my advice, never change oil without changing the filter. If you want to save a few bob you could probably increase the distance between oil changes. Some engines/equipment we were able to double the oil service interval. However this was done with regular oil sampling and analysis as well as magnets on the sump and bungs. Sometimes external filtration was used as well.


in short, the filter is very important and very cheap.
 

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While it might be true that the oil filter had plenty of life in it, extracting the oil and looking for particles doesn't tell you much. Examine any used oil and it's hard to see the fine particles in it, unless they have accumulated somewhere. In the case of a used filter, I would expect that the filter element material is where the particles were, not in the oil, so the only way to use your logic would be to cut the filter open and examine the filter material, possibly using a magnifying glass.
 
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Think about it. Saving seven quid every few months and risking your engine. I am going the other way and changing it more often.




I used to be a reliability tech for a massive bearing company, as a consultant to massive Aussie mines. Down time was the devil.


my advice, never change oil without changing the filter. If you want to save a few bob you could probably increase the distance between oil changes. Some engines/equipment we were able to double the oil service interval. However this was done with regular oil sampling and analysis as well as magnets on the sump and bungs. Sometimes external filtration was used as well.


in short, the filter is very important and very cheap.
So how often are you planning on changing your oil +filter? 1/2 the recommended mileage?
 

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If I do a track day in between services I'll do one after that. Apart from that then I'll probably just half the interval. Being a daily commuter the bike will do short trips a lot.
 

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my advice, never change oil without changing the filter. If you want to save a few bob you could probably increase the distance between oil changes. Some engines/equipment we were able to double the oil service interval. However this was done with regular oil sampling and analysis as well as magnets on the sump and bungs. Sometimes external filtration was used as well.

in short, the filter is very important and very cheap.
Big plus one on that statement. We service Trucks, diggers and graders in my workshop also using oil sampling and analysis done through CAT.
There's no way I would contaminate fresh oil with a dirty filter that only costs $7USD.

Trev, I'm doing my oil and filter every 4000km using a semi-synthetic (Castrol Power 1 GPS ) as a matter of interest. Did same drill on 250R previous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi
Thanks for your thoughts, I will just change it at 2000 mile intervals then and buy 4 liter containers of oil.
My CG was run on semi synth car oil, worked out at £2.50 a liter, the Motul 5100 is £33 for 4 liters, Silkoline Comp 4 is £39 for 4 liters :eek:, how does that compare in your country

Mark.
 

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Sooo after I did my oil change about 1500 miles ago I took the old oil filter out and let some absorbent paper just touch it at one point, a few days later after some capillary action?? all the old oil had been sucked out, the filter wasn't much different than a new one and the paper had no particles in it at all.
I'm just not keen on leaving my oil in the bike for even half the recommended service interval, my CG held 1 liter of oil and was changed every thousand miles, the CBR holds 1.5 liters with an oil filter, my current oil has been in about 1500 miles and is now quite dirty, it isn't thrashed and does 15 miles each way so is warmed up all the time, I'm thinking of changing the oil every 1500-2000 miles and the filter every second oil change. 4 liters of oil is £32-39 depending on what you use (semi synth) so an oil change is about a tenner every three months and £17 with filter (1800 miles commuting), any one see a problem with this arrangement??.
Mark
I don't at all. I change my oil much more frequently than recommended as well. I figure it can't hurt it and the price of changing it wont exactly kill me. I use a K&N oil filter and Amsoil 10/40. They 'say' that Amsoil can even be left in longer than other oils but I don't trust them on that.
Oh yah..definitely change that filter at every oil change. As long as you're doing the job, do it right! Only takes an extra 5 minutes to do . Also the magnetic drain plug is always a must on all my vehicles. Whenever I do something like change the oil or anything requiring a gasket, I always get a new one. I've heard some say you can reuse the oil filter gasket a couple times but if for some reason it's bad and leaks you have to do the entire oil change over again. Not worth it.
 

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Oil filter paper element inspection

I changed my oil and filter today for the fifth time and this time I took some photos of cutting the old filter open and what the paper element looks like unraveled.
You will see that at 12K miles I'm still getting some particles on the outside of the element. That filter had been in there for 3K miles. This is nothing to be worried about though, just the filter doing its job. The inside of the filter paper was spotless.






 

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Looks totally normal. You have a magnetic drain plug too right? Did it have much, if any shavings on it? You're always gonna get lil bits of shavings even it's a perfect running engine. I've seen it on my cars with 30,000miles. Startup is the worst time for wear on your engine and the longer time between startups the worse the wear will be. If you have a vehicle garaged for a year or more (building/restoring a vehicle) you should start it up every once in a while because that oil will eventually totally drain into the pan leaving metal to metal contact when you do start it up
 

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Looks totally normal. You have a magnetic drain plug too right? Did it have much, if any shavings on it? You're always gonna get lil bits of shavings even it's a perfect running engine. I've seen it on my cars with 30,000miles. Startup is the worst time for wear on your engine and the longer time between startups the worse the wear will be. If you have a vehicle garaged for a year or more (building/restoring a vehicle) you should start it up every once in a while because that oil will eventually totally drain into the pan leaving metal to metal contact when you do start it up
No I haven't got round to getting one, probably wont now as I will be selling my bike some time later this year most likely.
 
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on storage and oil gravitating from engine to sump;
days or even overnight between running engine
will have a similar effect..

when you start her up there is only a minimum
film of oil there to lubricate friction surfaces..

one reason for an unhurried startup routine,
then taking it easy with low engine loads
for the first few miles, as oil pumps
around and thru your engine..

riding only short hops wont generate good
operating temp which also influences
penetration of lubricant thru engine..
low temp oil wont burn off moisture etc,
resulting in potential sludge formation..

my 6 road hondas had their first oil change
after riding home from the dealership..
not saying clean oil is magic,
but it is [to quote motorcyclist father]
'the bloodstream of an engine'

everything that moves in your engine
depends on the oil flowing thru it..

this is an easy no fuss responsibility
remove your sump plug and drain out
the old dirty used oil, then pour in
[only 1.5l !] of good new oil..

its also 'motorcyclist brain training'..
 

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on storage and oil gravitating from engine to sump;
days or even overnight between running engine
will have a similar effect..

when you start her up there is only a minimum
film of oil there to lubricate friction surfaces..

one reason for an unhurried startup routine,
then taking it easy with low engine loads
for the first few miles, as oil pumps
around and thru your engine..

riding only short hops wont generate good
operating temp which also influences
penetration of lubricant thru engine..
low temp oil wont burn off moisture etc,
resulting in potential sludge formation..

my 6 road hondas had their first oil change
after riding home from the dealership..
not saying clean oil is magic,
but it is [to quote motorcyclist father]
'the bloodstream of an engine'

everything that moves in your engine
depends on the oil flowing thru it..

this is an easy no fuss responsibility
remove your sump plug and drain out
the old dirty used oil, then pour in
[only 1.5l !] of good new oil..

its also 'motorcyclist brain training'..
Great explanation. I use to buy old muscle cars and people would tell me "it's in perfect condition, hasn't been moved or started in years". When they say that to me I immediately think Uh Oh. Absolutely no oil 'film' on any moving parts and a lot of the time parts have rusted or it's basically seized.
 

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Dunno how true it is but I was told to run the bike for 20 minutes. However I would think just get the bike up to operating temperature and the oil should be heated up enough to be thinned out and circulating 100%. Anyone have other thoughts?
If not riding my bike, I always run it on the paddock stand at least once a week. When it's up to temperature I stick in gear and run for another 10 minutes to get the oil all around the gearbox.
 
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Short hop rides on bikes and cars makes the oil rapidly change temperature and viscosity at a rate that prematurely deteriorates the oil.
Really If you only do short rides you get around this by just changing your oil more frequently.
 
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There is a cost attached to oïl change. I do change it at every 5000km on my truck even if Ford tell me 8000km with mineral oïl. i want good oïl all the time and do not want burned oïl.
The filter goes down with the oïl, no question about it.

For my CB300f i will do same, As Honda recommend 8000km before oïl change. I will go on 4000 to 5000km and change it.

As i know the temperature here in Quebec city, a lot of humid air and we know that an engine breath.

I come back to the cost of an oïl change. I prefere to change oïl than go to the garage and change engine parts or entire engine.

That is the way i manage all motorised poweplant i own.

Take care
 
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