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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do you guys check the oil level on your CBR300R? Do you do it from the side stand, side stand and tilt or from a rear wheel stand?

My 300R is my first bike, had it 10 months now and just hit 8000km/4970m and decided to check the oil level (did a few months back). Depending how I check it I get really varied levels. BY that I mean on the side stand its empty (because its leaned over), on a rear wheel stand it looks empty, I guess because its slightly forward, but if I side stand and tilt slightly (getting someone to eyeball its straight) then it looks fine.

Not sure what to believe at the moment.
 

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What you were doing originally by standing/squatting on the right hand side of the bike with it tilted off the side stand is near enough. Once you've had a few people give you an idea of what the vertical position is you soon have a bit of a feel for it.
Would pay to do it once a week at least tho. I do it before every ride, water level too while your down there.

Your getting a few clicks on your machine now, Ive got about 12,500 after a quiet winter. Hows yer back tyre looking?
 

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Rear wheel stand is the most accurate method.
No it's not... the bike needs to have both tires sitting on level ground, and held in an upright position off the side stand.
 

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Shaving mirror and spirit level is the only accurate way by yourself as previously posted.


My paddock stand is an old one that only lifts the rear tyre about 10mm above the ground.The oil level is only slightly lower than both wheels on the ground.
But I would use the stand method over the guessing vertical method,as Puc said a slight movement when holding the bars makes a big difference in the sight glass.
 

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best with bike vertical, on a flat surface..
then slight movements either way show
either side of centered or level..

one way is to stand throttle side holding throttle
right hand, left hand over seat, feet shoulder width
just feeling for center of gravity,, moving her in
then away, keeping knees bent a little for stability,
[stand down]...

as eyes are too high without using a mirror on a stick,
take eyes down to sight glass window level
by bending left knee down to the ground,
bending right knee enough to rest on left knee
and left ball of foot..
arms follow you down, hands on seat and throttle..
now you are at a level low enough for a direct sight
while 'anchoring' the bikes weight with your own
weight dropped down towards ground level..

best to practice this knee down position a few times
to get the feel of it, touching something for stability..
once youre down there its easy to move the bike
slightly, in and away, moving oil up and down,
which will show the level mid movement..

once you have this knee down position
its quite stable and easy, takes a few
seconds to check oil level..

[one way to start is close to a wall
left bar almost touching, so you know
she cant fall away from you]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thx everyone, will keep doing the upright/tilt check on it. Checked it again tonight and got the misses to eyeball it for me again and all looked OK. If I put it up on the wheel stand then yeah I can't get it to show even if I rock the bike, its just tilted to far forward.

Wouldn't have thought that just over half way to its first service it would need topping up anyway but wanted to check. Will get into the habbit of daily/weekly check of the level as I just plain forgot for a while. Not as bad as me forgetting to lube the chain for 4500km?!?!?! :eek:

Your getting a few clicks on your machine now, Ive got about 12,500 after a quiet winter. Hows yer back tyre looking?
Thx, yeah getting through it for sure. Tyres are all looking good actually, my run to work is pretty straight down the motorway and back, no real tight turns. Heck, I've still got the new tyre mark on one side of my rear wheel, faint but its there hahaha.

Need to get a larger(?) front sprocket to help lower the revs a bit on the motorway. MY run home can have me at 100kph for 20mins so its stuck at 6-7000rpm the whole time so would like to lower that if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ah another question, might as well ask, chain tension. How come there is such a large difference between checking it on the top of the chain (hardly any movement) to checking on the bottom pushing up (lots of movement)? Chain and sprockets all look fine apart from that.
 

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Need to get a larger(?) front sprocket to help lower the revs a bit on the motorway. MY run home can have me at 100kph for 20mins so its stuck at 6-7000rpm the whole time so would like to lower that if I can.
Here's a link to the place I got mine on line:

Honda CBR250R (2013) parts, from Motozone | NZ?s Leading Motorcycle Online Store

Scroll down the listings to... Power Transmission > Sprocket - Front - Alternative Gearing.
The item code for the 15 tooth is SPF206715C ... price $20.63

Regarding your poor neglected chain and its tension: There's not such a large span of unsupported chain on the top because you have the rubber chain guide attached to the top and front of the swing arm. Whereas on the bottom it just rolls off the sprocket and then all hangs there flapping around in the breeze waiting for some lube every 4,500 km Lol.
 

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Small block of wood, 25mm thick, wood under side stand which should nearly be level without the risk of falling on you, bend to check and if in between sight glass lines all is well.
 

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... Wouldn't have thought that just over half way to its first service it would need topping up anyway but wanted to check...
Was the oil & filter changed at 1000 km (600 miles)?

Also, I'd plan on changing the oil & filter soon... I wouldn't recommend going more than 5000 miles between oil & filter changes on these engines (I change mine about every 4000 miles), despite what the O/M recommends. IMO, 8000 miles is too long of an interval on an engine that holds less than 2 quarts of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here's a link to the place I got mine on line:

Honda CBR250R (2013) parts, from Motozone | NZ?s Leading Motorcycle Online Store

Scroll down the listings to... Power Transmission > Sprocket - Front - Alternative Gearing.
The item code for the 15 tooth is SPF206715C ... price $20.63

Regarding your poor neglected chain and its tension: There's not such a large span of unsupported chain on the top because you have the rubber chain guide attached to the top and front of the swing arm. Whereas on the bottom it just rolls off the sprocket and then all hangs there flapping around in the breeze waiting for some lube every 4,500 km Lol.
THx for the link, will pick one up. I'm guessing you don't need to shorten the chain for this as its just one tooh difference? Just adjust the tension.

AH, I get what you mean about the chain guard. HAHA, yeah when I realized I forgot to lube it when talking with some other bikers at work, it was like oooooohh :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Small block of wood, 25mm thick, wood under side stand which should nearly be level without the risk of falling on you, bend to check and if in between sight glass lines all is well.
Great idea, didn't think of that!

Was the oil & filter changed at 1000 km (600 miles)?

Also, I'd plan on changing the oil & filter soon... I wouldn't recommend going more than 5000 miles between oil & filter changes on these engines (I change mine about every 4000 miles), despite what the O/M recommends. IMO, 8000 miles is too long of an interval on an engine that holds less than 2 quarts of oil.
Yep they changed both at the 1000km service. About to hit 8000km/4970miles soon so might be time to do it, as my next service (1yr or 12k km) is 3 months away so probably pushing it. Thx guys, will look at picking some stuff up for it :)
 

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As others have said, a rear paddock stand works fine on level ground, and having one makes adjusting, cleaning and oiling the chain much easier, so it's a good investment. It may not hold the bike absolutely vertical, but with a little bit of tweaking, it's close enough. A couple of degrees from vertical makes little difference to the apparent oil level. You also have no worries about the bike toppling over when you're on your own.
 
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THx for the link, will pick one up. I'm guessing you don't need to shorten the chain for this as its just one tooh difference? Just adjust the tension.
Because you have 8K on your bike you wont have any issues with your chain being too short to accommodate the extra tooth. This mod will mean that when your chain gets even more wear on it you wont need to get a link taken out.

If you want a cheap rear stand like JNO suggests then have a look on the torpedo 7 site. I got mine from there at 40% discount. Cheapest you will find in NZ.

TORPEDO7 Motorcycle Lift Stand - Rear | Buy Stands Online | Shop @ Torpedo7
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Because you have 8K on your bike you wont have any issues with your chain being too short to accommodate the extra tooth. This mod will mean that when your chain gets even more wear on it you wont need to get a link taken out.

If you want a cheap rear stand like JNO suggests then have a look on the torpedo 7 site. I got mine from there at 40% discount. Cheapest you will find in NZ.

TORPEDO7 Motorcycle Lift Stand - Rear | Buy Stands Online | Shop @ Torpedo7
Thx! Sounds good on the chain. Already got that stand actually, did the same thing with a 40% sale, works great. Seems to tip it too far forward to check oil properly but its great for the chain lube etc, so will give the block of wood under the kickstand check too.
 

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I check mine on the rear paddock stand. I compared vertical position with both tires down to the rear stand and the difference is minimal. I'm sure it all depends on how high your lift is though
 
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