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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I've had my first bike, a CBR300RA, for about 3 months now and I love it! I've learned a lot from browsing this forum, but I had some additional questions I was hoping to get some clarification on.

I followed the hard break-in procedure I read about on here, taking it easy on the bike for the first 50 miles and then I started riding it like how I would normally ride. After I hit 125 miles I started taking the bike to redline and then letting the engine decelerate a few times, as I saw suggested on here, and when I drive normally I shift between 6-8k rpm. Now I'm at 270 miles, I haven't been able to ride as much as I wanted due to being busy at work and being unable to ride highways until the break-in is complete. I plan to get an oil change at 300-350 miles, and then another one at 600 miles. Just wanted to check and make sure I was getting it right?

Also, I noticed that when I first start the bike the engine sounds a lot louder than when I start it up again after it's been warmed up. Is this normal? The bike does feel a lot smoother now than when I first got it, but I occasionally have trouble shifting (but that could be the boots I'm wearing). The exhaust also seems to get really hot, and I'm not sure if that's normal as well.

Thanks in advance!
 

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So long as your oil changes are within the recommended intervals, you'll be fine. To be honest, non-turbo road bikes and cars could probably happily exceed the stated intervals by a large margin quite safely, but it's a cheap thing to do, so why take the risk, eh?

Engines are usually noisier when cold, but not by much. It's impossible for me to offer any advice though, without hearing it myself, so I would pop down to a dealer and let them take a listen. The extra noise is usually due to there being insufficient oil pressure in parts of the engine for a few seconds after start up, but should go away pretty quickly as the oil pump gets into its stride. When the oil is very cold (I didn't check where you live) this process takes longer and is one of the reasons why you should choose your grade of oil to suit the local climate - running a 'thick' oil in very cold temps may mean the top end of your engine is starved of oil for long enough to do a little damage each time you start it. Stick with the manufacturer's recommended grades and you should be fine. Also, be aware that putting expensive synthetic oils in some bike engines is actually a bad idea, so again, use only what Honda recommend.

Exhausts get very hot indeed! That's normal. In fact, your exhaust system includes a catalytic converter, which helps clean up exhaust gases, and only works properly when it gets to 500 degrees F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I see, thanks for the info! I live in Los Angeles, so it can get pretty hot here haha. Also, when should I be on the lookout/start inspecting the chain to tighten and/or lube it? Looking online it says about every 500 miles.
 

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Surprise, everything about your bike is normal. You're worrying too much like I did initially. Everything will be okay. ;)

In regards to tightening the chain, I believe the dealer tightens it up on the 600 mile service, no? It has been solid for me ever since and with over 3k miles now, but I understand that it would be wise to keep an eye on it and adjust as needed. Also, I've learned that cleaning and lubing the chain on every other fuel up would be a good plan.
 

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once aligned, new chain should need almost no adjustment
for quite some time, depending on how you ride etc..
so long as you clean it now and then and lube it
regularly..

spray lube is easy, especially on a rear stand..
just spin the wheel aiming tube on nozzle
into mid chain on lower run and/or
as it passes over rear sprocket..

best done when warm, so after a ride..

main thing is to ensure its well aligned,,
so stamped lines both sides equal
and [on rear stand] sight along top run
of chain while turning watching for
bowing of chain, resulting from
axle thus wheel and sprocket
out of alignment..

plenty of chain videos youtube,
here, cbr250r forums search box..
 

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A lot of riders have had the chain loosen very quickly after the first hard ride. This is normal and after the first adjustment checking it every now and then is fine.
 

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also, on running her in and avoiding highways,
you can still ride on highways,, just avoid long periods
running at the same revs..

its no problem to throttle off, as if you thought of stopping etc,
but then throttle back on again and continue..
same for making ongoing changes in speed/revs
as if [maginary] cars ahead were slowing [etc]..

so long as your aware of who/whats behind you
and around you, and you dong do anything
obviously dangerous, you can do what you like
riding highways/freeways etc..

the key is to vary speed and revs while running in..
the more the better.. esp engine breaking..
[which helps seat rings etc]
 

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... Now I'm at 270 miles, I haven't been able to ride as much as I wanted due to being busy at work and being unable to ride highways until the break-in is complete. I plan to get an oil change at 300-350 miles, and then another one at 600 miles. Just wanted to check and make sure I was getting it right?...
No reason not to change the oil now at 270 miles. A lot of guys do the first oil & filter change on a new engine as early as 100 to 200 miles... then you'll be good to go until the second oil & filter change at 4000 to 5000 miles (I change mine every 4000 miles). IMO, doing a second oil change at 600 miles is really just a waste of oil.

BTW, you don't need to go to a dealer for the 600 mile service... you can save a nice chunk of money by doing it yourself.

... when should I be on the lookout/start inspecting the chain to tighten and/or lube it? Looking online it says about every 500 miles.
Every 500 miles is about right for checking chain free play and giving it a light spray of chain lube.

For cleaning the chain, I use kerosene and a small paint brush to scrub the crud off followed by a rinse using water from a garden hose, about every 1500 miles... IMO, more often than that is overkill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
also, on running her in and avoiding highways,
you can still ride on highways,, just avoid long periods
running at the same revs..

its no problem to throttle off, as if you thought of stopping etc,
but then throttle back on again and continue..
same for making ongoing changes in speed/revs
as if [maginary] cars ahead were slowing [etc]..

so long as your aware of who/whats behind you
and around you, and you dong do anything
obviously dangerous, you can do what you like
riding highways/freeways etc..

the key is to vary speed and revs while running in..
the more the better.. esp engine breaking..
[which helps seat rings etc]
Thanks for the reply, that makes sense. Out of curiosity, what would be a "long period of time?" Like 30 minutes or more?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No reason not to change the oil now at 270 miles. A lot of guys do the first oil & filter change on a new engine as early as 100 to 200 miles... then you'll be good to go until the second oil & filter change at 4000 to 5000 miles (I change mine every 4000 miles). IMO, doing a second oil change at 600 miles is really just a waste of oil.

BTW, you don't need to go to a dealer for the 600 mile service... you can save a nice chunk of money by doing it yourself.



Every 500 miles is about right for checking chain free play and giving it a light spray of chain lube.

For cleaning the chain, I use kerosene and a small paint brush to scrub the crud off followed by a rinse using water from a garden hose, about every 1500 miles... IMO, more often than that is overkill.
Thanks for the info! I ended up getting an oil change at around 300 miles and cleaned/adjusted the chain, and the bike seems to be running a lot smoother. I was planning on getting another oil change at 600 miles, but maybe I'll just postpone that then.
 

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once aligned, new chain should need almost no adjustment
for quite some time, depending on how you ride etc..
so long as you clean it now and then and lube it
regularly..

spray lube is easy, especially on a rear stand..
just spin the wheel aiming tube on nozzle
into mid chain on lower run and/or
as it passes over rear sprocket..

best done when warm, so after a ride..

main thing is to ensure its well aligned,,
so stamped lines both sides equal
and [on rear stand] sight along top run
of chain while turning watching for
bowing of chain, resulting from
axle thus wheel and sprocket
out of alignment..

plenty of chain videos youtube,
here, cbr250r forums search box..
Ah yes, lube, lube and more lube. The secret to many things in life.:nerd:
 

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nunning for 'long periods of time same speed/revs on highways
during run in phase, isnt a matter of minutes and seconds..

think of all those moving parts and friction points between
mating surfaces, which for best even wear and seating in
of rings etc,. need varying speeds and revs..

if you were riding around suburbia say, you would be speeding up
and slowing down for corners and so on, which would be fine,
but even then, esp in the first phases its best to deliberaely take her
up and down thru the gears, revs and speeds, including engine breaking,
which creates necessary pressures within combustion chamber for
better bedding in of rings etc..

so you want to mimic or have that in mind on a highway
when that cant be avoided during first run in phases..

use your imagination and ride as if there are other vehicles
slowing and speeding up ahead, or like that..
rather than timed changes,just change speed etc
whenever it crosses your mind..

if its a highway and you give yourself plenty of time
think of it as a special opportunity to practice engine
breaking or engine slowing, together with changing
gears and use of throttle etc..

its all just more free and valuable practice..

doesnt take long before its too late anyway
ie, the first run in phase is most important..

no need to baby her, just go for smoothness
and plenty of variation in engine speed..
 

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No reason not to change the oil now at 270 miles. A lot of guys do the first oil & filter change on a new engine as early as 100 to 200 miles... then you'll be good to go until the second oil & filter change at 4000 to 5000 miles (I change mine every 4000 miles). IMO, doing a second oil change at 600 miles is really just a waste of oil.

BTW, you don't need to go to a dealer for the 600 mile service... you can save a nice chunk of money by doing it yourself.



Every 500 miles is about right for checking chain free play and giving it a light spray of chain lube.

For cleaning the chain, I use kerosene and a small paint brush to scrub the crud off followed by a rinse using water from a garden hose, about every 1500 miles... IMO, more often than that is overkill.
So I don't need to clean the chain every time I lube it?
 

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Nope.... like Mike says above..perhaps every 1500 to 2000 mile..depending on how much you ride on gravel/dusty roads.
 
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