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Hey guys and gals first time posting. I'll jump right to it. Tomorrow I'm going look at a 2015 cbr300r ABS with 300 miles on her. The guy has agreed to $3500 if I want it after checking it out. Would you recommend this?
 

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Depends where you are. If that's Aussie dollars, it's a bargain. I have no idea otherwise. What are similar bikes in your area going for?
 

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300 miles is next to nothing. Wonder what the reason is for selling...

Check out the best price you can pick up a new (identical) one for in your area, and then you can see if the difference is truly yielding a good (or great) savings.

* Disclaimer - In order to obtain "best" pricing from your dealer, you may have to show them commitment in purchasing.
 

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I got mine in New Orleans brand new 4300 plus tag and tax. Its been over a year since I got mine but that's not a bad price for one with 300 miles on it. Check it out and make sure nothing is wrong with it. It could be that whoever purchased the bike got tired of it quickly and wants something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Buck This is the reason for his selling. He learned on the 300 and wanted more speed so he bought an R6 not long after owning the 300. I checked out the bike this weekend it's in perfect condition. Thoughts?
 

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@Buck This is the reason for his selling. He learned on the 300 and wanted more speed so he bought an R6 not long after owning the 300. I checked out the bike this weekend it's in perfect condition. Thoughts?
LoL, 300 miles on the bike is by no means called "learning" - I'm probably guilty myself of making the switch at just under 5k miles and just under 1 full year of ownership, and I'm certain that I could have gained more experience with the 300R. Just venting out on the other guy.

Moving forward, someone else's loss can be your gain - it looks.

* I traded in my 300R (non-ABS) for $2,500 + tax credit, and I put just under 5k miles on it. Bought it new for $4,800 out the door. So $3,500 for a 300R with ABS seems pretty fair, but keep in mind that you'll have to pay taxes and reg fees at your local DMV on top of that. If he's really itching to sell, $3,000 would indeed be a much sweeter number, lol.
 
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@Buck This is the reason for his selling. He learned on the 300 and wanted more speed so he bought an R6 not long after owning the 300. I checked out the bike this weekend it's in perfect condition. Thoughts?
That's a good deal. 300 miles is nothing, the bike has not even made it to its first check up milage. If you have the cash see if he will take $3,000, if he if is firm its still a good price. And if you happen to get bored with the bike at least you did not pay full retail price for a brand new bike like he did because he is losing probably a $1000 or more off what he paid for it.
 

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... I traded in my 300R (non-ABS) for $2,500 + tax credit, and I put just under 5k miles on it...
Didn't you also have to sign over your $900 insurance check as part of the deal?... so you actually got something like $1600 for your 300R in trade.
 

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Didn't you also have to sign over your $900 insurance check as part of the deal?... so you actually got something like $1600 for your 300R in trade.
I'm okay with you viewing it that way.

Bike was damaged, so the opposing party's insurance bailed me out - someone had to pay for the fix, even if only half of the $900 was the actual cost of damage. Check went to the service department, so they actually made the money - even though it could be considered one place at the end of the day.

If I didn't get involved in the incident and traded-in as is, it's reasonable for me to believe that $2,500 is the most I could expect for as a trade-in number, and maybe $3,000 tops for a private sale (IMO).

$2,500 was shown as the trade-in figure on the contract, although it's the final number that says it all at the end of the day... I'm okay if it meant me taking more of loss in one's eyes. I'm back riding and happy with the 600RR while getting great use and enjoyment out of it (just under 2k miles on the ODO as a daily rider). I'll gladly work harder in return and to make up for it too.

:)
 

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I get lost on your buying and selling system in the US, here you have the bike with a price, used you haggle the price, pay, walk away with bike, I know theres insurance and road emissions tax £38 a year but that's it.
When I bought mine new I asked the price and that was it road tax included in price agreed, payed, picked it up, just my own insurance to sort.
 

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Didn't you also have to sign over your $900 insurance check as part of the deal?... so you actually got something like $1600 for your 300R in trade.

That's just the dealer trying to make it seem even better than it is. Basically you save paying the taxes on an additional _______$ based on your trade in. In this case the new motorcycle would have had $2500 off the price that he didn't pay tax on. Still, that's the dealers way of making it seem even better than it is, cause trade in value always sucks. Always.
100% of the time you are better off selling your bike privately and negotiating a good deal on the new sled.
 

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That's just the dealer trying to make it seem even better than it is. Basically you save paying the taxes on an additional _______$ based on your trade in. In this case the new motorcycle would have had $2500 off the price that he didn't pay tax on. Still, that's the dealers way of making it seem even better than it is, cause trade in value always sucks. Always.
100% of the time you are better off selling your bike privately and negotiating a good deal on the new sled.
As in snowmobile? ;)

Yeah, I know how trade-in's work... I owned and operated a motorcycle/snowmobile dealership for 12 years. And yes, you do save whatever amount of sales tax on the trade value difference. The point was that he didn't really get $2500 for his bike, due to the damage from the crash, which the dealer had to repair before being able to resell it. So you subtract the $900 insurance check that he had to turn over to the dealer, and the net trade value is $1600... it's simple math.

Given that his bike was basically worth $2500 as a trade in if it were in undamaged condition, If it were me in that same situation I would have cashed the $900 insurance check and bought the $200 - $300 worth of parts to fix it myself, and then pocketed the difference.
 

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I expected this going in, and the bottom line number was my primary focus at the end. I was okay with shelling out the money as long as the deal seemed fair and for the sake of convenience while finding the precise bike of choice - and moving away from the incident cleanly and positively without taking additional time.

I save and make money where I can, and at times I feel it's okay to let the business make their money if the buyer feels the return in value / satisfaction afterwards.
 
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I get lost on your buying and selling system in the US, here you have the bike with a price, used you haggle the price, pay, walk away with bike, I know theres insurance and road emissions tax £38 a year but that's it.
When I bought mine new I asked the price and that was it road tax included in price agreed, payed, picked it up, just my own insurance to sort.
It's just that we have different registration & tax situations depending on which state one lives in. Some states have pretty steep tax rates and registration fees on vehicles. Here in New Mexico were I live, we pay a one time 3% motor vehicle excise tax on new or used vehicle purchases. Yearly registration in NM is about $30 for motorcycles.
 
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