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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so I'm getting close to my 1000km service and I've been hearing that some people use car oil filters on their bikes......

Am I totally insane here even considering doing it? The people on the BITOG forum usually know whats up and it seems reasonable that if the specs (oil bypass pressure, pitch, thread diameter, etc.) are within specifications it would work. I have a spare Wix filter lying around that I use on my Civic and it does cross reference against the list in the below links.

using a car oil filter for a motorcycle | Motorcycles and Motorcycle Lubrication | Bob Is The Oil Guy
Motorcycle Oil Filter Cross Reference

I'm going to be tossing in JASO-MA certified Rotella T6 into the bike during the next oil change.

I also want to confirm that the oil change intervals on our bikes are 12000km (8000 miles), it seems a bit long for a high revving single with 1.5 Litres of oil in it compared to a passenger car where I do it every 10000 km and it's a 1.8L 4 cylinder motor that doesn't rev high and holds 3.7 Litres of oil. I know with more modern oil processing/manufacturing technology and better built stuff that it takes longer to break down and there's less crap caught in the oil but I would imagine that 1000km/6000 miles on a bike is what would be considered an extended interval.
 

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Thats really only applicable to spin on oil filters, not the little catridge that our honda uses.

Youll find most of us here change the oil more frequently than the honda prescribed amount. The owners manual does also say that more frequent oil changes may be needed depending on riding conditions etc. I personally use motul semi synth ester 5400 10/40 as im in aus with 40deg celcius summer days.

For oil filters, make sure you put it on the right way. I personally dont see how people have put them on backwards, but aparrently they have.

For non genuine filters you can get KN112 or hiflo filtros equivalent, or the PC racing hiflo stainless reuasble which is what im switching to when my motors rebuilt. Kawasaki, Honda, Polaris Off Road PC112 Drop-in Flo Oil
 

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bear in mind a recommendation for an eeonomy based motorcycle
suitable for novices etc. does not mean what is best or most
appropriate for every rider or riding style etc..

for typical new owners in some societies an oil change means
time out at a dealers for additional servicing and costs..
thus if additional oil changes were recommended,
then relative cost thus economy would suffer..

so its up to the owner, whether or not he/she chooses
to change oil early or more frequently than 'recommended'..
many riders change oil soon after purchase and riding..
for me that was after riding home from the dealer..

then regularly thereafter, at my pleasure..
never did any harm to six road hondas..
it is as mentioned only a small capacity sump..
and it can provide peace of mind to new owners
especially those who basically dont trust some
unknown person in thailand or wherever
to exercise the same care as i/they would,
or for that matter use the best oil etc..

a recommendation cant take into account
those who ride regularly and for distance
compared to those who ride mostly
short hops.. insufficient to burn off
sludge creating moisture in oil..


some councillors recommend
sex once or twice a week..
mainly to ensure a minimum dose,,
whereas what is best,, is what
works best for the individuals..

if in doubt, you cant go wrong
opting for more over less..
 

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So you want to use a non-specified filter, fill the bike with alternative oil and use your own service intervals....

No offence, but you remind me of a chap who used to post on here until recently. He NEVER did what the manufacturers' suggested. He would happily spend hours redesigning a $5 part, just to prove Honda/Ford/IBM didn't know what they were talking about and/or were ripping us off.

You must have way too much time on your hands :D
 

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So you want to use a non-specified filter, fill the bike with alternative oil and use your own service intervals....

No offence, but you remind me of a chap who used to post on here until recently. He NEVER did what the manufacturers' suggested. He would happily spend hours redesigning a $5 part, just to prove Honda/Ford/IBM didn't know what they were talking about and/or were ripping us off.

You must have way too much time on your hands :D
Completely different.

Spin on oil filters are somewhat universal in nature, not car or make specific.

I dont know that oil specifically, but i think others here use it as it does meet the jaso motorcycle std no?

As mentioned the service interval is a guidline, like the pirate code and no harm can come from more regular changes.
 

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So you want to use a non-specified filter, fill the bike with alternative oil and use your own service intervals....

No offence, but you remind me of a chap who used to post on here until recently. He NEVER did what the manufacturers' suggested. He would happily spend hours redesigning a $5 part, just to prove Honda/Ford/IBM didn't know what they were talking about and/or were ripping us off.

You must have way too much time on your hands :D
I'm surprised an intelligent chap like yourself JNO couldn't interpret the findings of MeeLees' parallel universe ;)
 

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Like mikal said, it's pretty difficult to skimp out on a $4 filter. In other words, I'd imagine you'd spend more time and energy trying to find a good quality oil filter under $4 than the savings would justify. Unless you plan on using toilet paper as your filter media like back in the day!
 

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Like mikal said, it's pretty difficult to skimp out on a $4 filter. In other words, I'd imagine you'd spend more time and energy trying to find a good quality oil filter under $4 than the savings would justify. Unless you plan on using toilet paper as your filter media like back in the day!
Musta been some strong paper back then because mine dissolves instantly lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
So you want to use a non-specified filter, fill the bike with alternative oil and use your own service intervals....

No offence, but you remind me of a chap who used to post on here until recently. He NEVER did what the manufacturers' suggested. He would happily spend hours redesigning a $5 part, just to prove Honda/Ford/IBM didn't know what they were talking about and/or were ripping us off.

You must have way too much time on your hands :D
Well after the oil crash and everyone getting laid off that's exactly the case. I'm not doing 70+ hour weeks anymore and I'm not sure what to do with all this spare time on my hands now. :D

I don't think it's a case of me being cheap if I'm asking about more frequent OCI's. I don't know where you're getting that. I just happen to have an extra oil filter in my garage for my passenger car and if it works then why not use that instead of making the trek out to buy an OEM filter. Otherwise I'm going to have to buy a couple of both filters to keep on hand instead of having one filter. I'm not trying to be a dick or anything that's just how I see it. And I'm a big proponent of using the right tools in their proper application, otherwise if not people can get seriously injured or die (in this case probably me since I'm riding the bike and not the next unlucky guy that has a blowout on the drilling pad).

As for the oil, the manual specifies that as long as it's JASO-MA certified, meets the SAE standards, and API Classified as SG or higher it's an appropriate oil when using non Honda engine oil. Rotella T6 meets those specs and also doesn't have friction additives. Also I like the products that SOPUS makes, yes their upstream, midstream and downstream operations are different but still a good company in my eyes. Otherwise maybe I'll just go out and grab some Shell Advance Ultra or something which I know is JASO certified and all that good stuff and is marketed as "motorcycle oil" because that's what it says on the packaging.
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Well after the oil crash and everyone getting laid off that's exactly the case. I'm not doing 70+ hour weeks anymore and I'm not sure what to do with all this spare time on my hands now. :D

I don't think it's a case of me being cheap if I'm asking about more frequent OCI's. I don't know where you're getting that. I just happen to have an extra oil filter in my garage for my passenger car and if it works then why not use that instead of making the trek out to buy an OEM filter. Otherwise I'm going to have to buy a couple of both filters to keep on hand instead of having one filter. I'm not trying to be a dick or anything that's just how I see it. And I'm a big proponent of using the right tools in their proper application, otherwise if not people can get seriously injured or die (in this case probably me since I'm riding the bike and not the next unlucky guy that has a blowout on the drilling pad).

As for the oil, the manual specifies that as long as it's JASO-MA certified, meets the SAE standards, and API Classified as SG or higher it's an appropriate oil when using non Honda engine oil. Rotella T6 meets those specs and also doesn't have friction additives. Also I like the products that SOPUS makes, yes their upstream, midstream and downstream operations are different but still a good company in my eyes. Otherwise maybe I'll just go out and grab some Shell Advance Ultra or something which I know is JASO certified and all that good stuff and is marketed as "motorcycle oil" because that's what it says on the packaging.
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This will be your first oil change on a 300? Have you ever looked at the oil filter on the 300?
 

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... I just happen to have an extra oil filter in my garage for my passenger car and if it works then why not use that instead of making the trek out to buy an OEM filter. Otherwise I'm going to have to buy a couple of both filters to keep on hand instead of having one filter.

As for the oil, the manual specifies that as long as it's JASO-MA certified, meets the SAE standards, and API Classified as SG or higher it's an appropriate oil when using non Honda engine oil. Rotella T6 meets those specs and also doesn't have friction additives...
Trust me when I say that your extra spin-on oil filter made for your car will not work on the CBR/CB300. Your bike has a small oil filter which is installed inside the right side crankcase cover. As others have said, just get a few of the OEM Honda filters made for this bike ... they are only $4 to $5 a piece.

As for the Rotella T6 oil, that will work fine for use in your bike.

To your question on oil change intervals, I personally think that 8000 miles between oil & filter changes too far considering the relatively small quantity used for this engine. If using a full synthetic oil, 6000 miles is about as far as I'd want to go. I myself use a full synthetic motorcycle oil and change it and the filter once a year, which ends up being about every 4000 to 5000 miles.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This will be your first oil change on a 300? Have you ever looked at the oil filter on the 300?
Well ****... I see where you're going. Decided to look up the actual filter and it's a cartridge not a spin on, there goes that idea. I know that CBR600's have spin on's and people who own CBR600's and RSX's/Integras have managed to use the same oil filter.

I just don't like having 5 different parts that all do the same thing around. Having a Metric and Imperial set of tools makes sense because they're different, so having cartridge filters and spin on filters at home also make sense.

So tl;dr I was an idiot and should have actually looked at what the filters look like in the first place before latching onto weird ideas that I can minimize the stuff I keep on hand (I just hate having extra overhead items and love the whole Lean/Agile thing, in fact the motor oil at my house is all 0W-20 because they're specified as approved in the owners manuals for all the cars).

As far as the OCI goes I'm going to do that sooner because of reasons I've stated above (small amount of oil, high revving thumper) and do so with JASO MA certified stuff. I might even try to get a UOA done on the bike since the oil is getting changed this weekend anyways.

I'm not claiming to know more than the engineers who designed this stuff but I do believe in thinking critically about what they say.
 

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Yeah, I wouldn't waste the money for an oil analysis on a $4000 motorcycle... IMO it's a bit of overkill.

It's an entirely different thing having regular oil analysis's done for an expensive diesel engine operating in an even more expensive piece of construction equipment, and it makes perfect sense when one considers the large capital investments businesses make in that type of equipment.

For example, ski resorts running a fleet of Pisten Bully Snowcats ($300,000 to $450,000 USD each) wouldn't think about not doing regular oil analysis on these Mercedes turbo diesel engines...







.
 
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Yeah, I wouldn't waste the money for an oil analysis on a $4000 motorcycle... IMO it's a bit of overkill.

It's an entirely different thing having regular oil analysis's done for an expensive diesel engine operating in an even more expensive piece of construction equipment, and it makes perfect sense when one considers the large capital investments businesses make in that type of equipment.

For example, ski resorts running a fleet of Pisten Bully Snowcats ($300,000 to $450,000 USD each) wouldn't think about not doing regular oil analysis on these Mercedes turbo diesel engines...

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We do oil sample analysis on the Cat diesel engines at my place of work every 250 hr service. It's just part of the regular maintenance program.
@Tier1 I put some photos up in a post once of my oil filter cut open after the first oil and filter change so you see what to expect. Just cant remember which thread it was... Search function may help.
 

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If this helps at all I change my oil spring after running for couple hours and then normaly just befor end of season or about every 2k depending on how much I ride I have a 94 vt1100c and have been using a vo50 valvoline filter and Rotella t6 for the past 20k bike currently has 34k on it have magnetic drain plug and never have large buildup on the plug when oil is changed.
 

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😭 WHY WHY WHY?????
Why couldn’t Honda make a nice round cutout on that right fairing to include access to the oil filter WITHOUT having to remove sooooooo many fragile plastic parts in order to perform an oil filter change? WHY? 😢
 
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