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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
MeeLee quote..I used simple car oil, and haven't had any clutch slippage yet, but don't count on that.

I don't know what to say....
 
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I don't know... Done it in the past, no biggie.
It takes 2 oil changes to get clutch slip issues solved.
10W30 worked fine for me.
It was dino oil, not synthetic, since I'm still in the breakin period, waiting for my Honda GN4 oil to arrive in the mail...
 

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only if you know what you are doing,
understand what oils are, what additives are,
how friction modifiers etc can cause clutch
slippage under load [and so on] might you then
consider, what oils you put in your small
[1.6litre] capacity oil sump..

if you do happen to put friction modifiers in there
it can take up to 7 or more flushes to get it out..
bear in mind that friction modifiers will be
thruout your engine, finding their way back
to the sump thus clutch, after oil change
thus polluting the new oil..

if in any doubt, choose good quality
motorcycle oil recommended by
honda for this motorcycle..
 

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You can always count on MeeLee for a controversial post :rolleyes:
Agree with everyone, one way to lose your warranty and knacker a bike engine. I wonder why manufacturers spend millions in R&D for Joe Public to think they know better and try to save a few pennies. Numb Nuts I call them.
Honda for the CBR300F/R recommend: Jaso T 903 Standard 10W-30W with an API classification SG or higher if not using their oil. See pages 41 & 107 of the owners manual.
I also use Castrol high quality fully synthetic oil in my car as recommended by SEAT.
Perhaps Mee Lee wants to install a new engine after a short while so it gives him something to do.
 

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Funny one this, I ran my Honda CG on 10w-40 semi car oil for 15 thousand miles (2.5 years) with changes every 1 thousand as it worked out to be £2.50 an oil change (no filter on these), did the same for my Yamaha YBR before that, no ill effects on either.
I see the U.S. lads like to use Rotella in a good few of there bikes on other forums, Ive yet to see a proper chemical analysis of both types of oil compared side by side independently tested. I use Motul bike oil during the warranty period, after that who knows. You would think that a supplier would do this test to end the controversy or is there something to hide?, like governments I don't trust oil companies after all they only have to put a drop of synth in mineral oil to call it semi.Oil and Car Industry's need each other to keep there sales, look at the french made cars over here, surprise surprise they recommend ELF lubricants in there cars, a french based company owned by Total now I think also french based owned?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Myself.. I was under the impression (perhaps I read this some where) the automobile oil is not conducive to motorcycle transmission gears. Something to do with if I remember oil shearing properties. So with that in mind I will use what the manufacture suggests for oil..perhaps not the brand (Honda) but the recommended viscosity..
 

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Myself.. I was under the impression (perhaps I read this some where) the automobile oil is not conducive to motorcycle transmission gears. Something to do with if I remember oil shearing properties. So with that in mind I will use what the manufacture suggests for oil..perhaps not the brand (Honda) but the recommended viscosity..
Viscosity isn't a big thing, well it is but it isn't in the context that you used it.

Mineral vs synthetic
Additives
Api classification


For example, my car specifies 15w40.
At work i have access to 15w40 of an API classification that exceeds the manufactures recommendations.
This oil is bought for our fleet of locomotives, what might i need to consider before using this in my car?

As for oil shearing, well that's why i use fully synthetic 10w60 in my car instead of the recommended 15w40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
:laugh: you made this it's own thread. I'll just say, I'd rather take the risk and NOT change my oil than put in a non-recommended type
Nope..one of the Mods did that....:eek:
All I did was comment on MeeLee's post
 
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bottom line esp for novices etc
car oils are not designed or made for
use in motorcycle clutches bathed in oil..
car engine oils are not made for use in
gearboxes as they are in our motorcycles..
car oil sumps are always larger capacity
than our small [less than 2litre] sump..

car engine oils have various additives for
engines, which can and will damage
and cause slippage in our wet clutches..

due to shearing of oil molecules in gearboxes
oil shared between engine and gearbox will
suffer damage by gears mashing which will
also be influenced by dilution effects
increased in our small sumps..

there are many,,, oils out there..
as in any product with many types
and manufacturers, some are good, better,
not so good, worse, 5hit..
no doubt you can get away with the good
car oils which dont contain certain additives
so long as you expect to and do change it
early.. cost is not just purchase price..

as hearsay, my 6 daily use only transport
honda motorcycles all had good quality specific
motorcycle oils, regularly changed, esp at their
beginning phase, and they all ran like clockwork..
none of them ever missed a beat..

so specific motorcycle oil
never did them any harm..
 

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I have Castrol 10W40 motorcycle dino oil in the 300F right now and it operates very nicely. Next oil change I don't plan to use car oil...nope, not me. I'm using diesel truck oil. Rotella T6 which is 5W40 synthetic. It's a tried and true oil for me. Been using it for years along with thousands of other riders. Only thing a little different than other oils I've used that is apparent is that it starts out a little darker, so by the time you've ridden a 1000 mi. it can look dark. I change oil at least once a year or 3000 mi. on a broken-in bike every type of oil. Like someone pointed out, the amount of oil and stress put on these little engines is more than you get on a passenger car, so you probably don't want to use synthetic oil and extend the oil changes...but who knows? I've never had an oil-related issue with a motorcycle. There have been several reports of the model using oil, so it should be checked perhaps more often than some other bikes. I check it after every ride in the evening. No use to check it in the morning because if any leaked out, it would be on my garage floor and obvious. I did have a brand new 2009 Suzuki GZ250 that made a tinny knocking sound a couple of times on the ride back from the dealer. I suppose that could have been engine or oil related, but nothing ever came of it, and it only sounded bad for a few seconds, went away and never came back. I did trade it in on another bike after a year or so like I do most of my bikes.

Beautiful weather here. I rode the CB300F into San Antonio and back today...70 mph interstate much of the way. It was sunny with a high of 80 F.
 
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